Road-tripping Spain’s Mediterranean coast
Javier Panero Lonely Planet Author View gallerySunbathers lap up the sun on Mar Bella beach in Barcelona.
Damien SimonisLonely Planet Photographer
This four-room hideaway is the kind you might wish for in every tourist-worthy town. Though it is in the heart of the historic center, it is small enough to feel as if you are at a chic friend's home.
In many ways Siena hasn't changed much in 800 years. And that's a good thing. The town's gorgeous 13th-century main square, the Piazza del Campo, is still the city's symbolic and physical heart. The twice-a-summer bareback horse race, Il Palio, is still the most anticipated event, and the contrade, or neighborhood associations, still inspire a loyalty as deep as they did in medieval times.
Europe, Photography, Travel | September 27, 2012 by Erica |
Yes, Shaun wears shorts in the freezing cold.
The land of fire and ice is known for its magnificent natural beauty and there are no shortages of waterfalls in Iceland. We even had a running joke that all waterfalls coming out the sides of mountains close the the highway have amazing little colorful houses near them.
During our awesome Iceland Ring Road roadtrip we made sure to stop along the greats. Presenting: The Waterfall List of AWESOMENESS!
Svartifoss
Located in the Skaftafell National Park in the south, this is a quick 2km jaunt up an easy to hike hill/small mountain. Just pull up to the parking lot and there are quite a few signs around to ensure you go the right way.
This waterfall is made from dark basalt lava columns that create this really rad hexagonal shape. Needless to say we were impressed. Nature surprises me every day.
I think this is when we started our celebratory beer at the top of all of our waterfall goals. It definitely gives you a goal to work toward (that is more tangible than looking at a waterfall). Believe me, I needed it at one point when we were moving on to our next waterfall-
Hengifoss
This one is a bit off the Ring Road a bit in the East but completely worth it if you’re down to hike for a few hours. While this one can be easily seen from the road, you can’t grasp the enormity of one of the tallest falls (118m) until you make your way to the top.
This is not a hard hike but definitely not easy. You do get quite close to a chasm that will send you to your death and you do have to do some river crossings, rock hopping, and basic climbing.
When you finally scramble over everything you are greeted by lots of mist and the ability to check out the cave area behind the waterfall. Expect to come out soaking wet (as our awesome travel mate did) but he was stoked when he came clambering down to lazier people land. Looking up you can see layers of red clay that were made up of dying plants of the past in between the layers of volcanic activity (geology geek). I was so fascinated by Iceland since it is still relatively new land and we are watching it form over time.
Dettifoss
For you awesome nerdy people who visit here, this waterfall was known for the opening scene in Prometheus. No, I didn’t visit for this reason but it is still super cool to see it in action. This is Europe’s most powerful waterfall spewing out an impressive 193 m3/s of water in the Northern part of Iceland.
Getting there is an interesting adventure all on its own. While walking to the waterfall is easy enough, you have a choice of two different roads from Ring Road. If you are going counterclockwise, we took the first road. It is ENTIRELY gravel and dirt. It took us close to an hour to make the 28km trek to the waterfall. The rumor is that the other side is paved. Sure, you can take the easy way out but if you are looking for the best view (and to stand where giant alien man stood), take the more difficult road.
****You can see people in both pictures for size comparison. Look REALLY hard.****
Godafoss
The waterfall of the Gods may be the easiest one to get to. Not only do you see it directly off of Ring Road in the North, but there are a million cars parked in this area to get a glimpse.In the year 1000 the official lawmaker Thorgeir of Iceland had to choose the official religion in the Parlimentary Plains (Thingvellir). A bit pressured, and not to mention the many bloody wars going on, he chose Christianity and threw all the statues of Norse Gods into the waterfall – thus the name. This waterfall is a special part of Icelandic history!
We did see quite a few waterfalls in and around Iceland while making our way through the country but everything paled in comparison to the grandeur of the waterfalls mentioned above.
Make sure to visit some of these if you’re planning on doing Ring Road. You won’t regret it.
What waterfalls have been your favorite?
There really is nowhere else quite like it.
All this said, 170,000 tourists visited the Galápagos last year so, not surprisingly, it’s beginning to feel a little crowded. It’s a high-profile place and lots of people want to see it for themselves. The consequence of such an onslaught is that wildlife tourism is more tightly controlled in the archipelago than anywhere else in the world. You’re only allowed to visit tiny pockets of the national park, you can disembark (from small boats) only at designated landing spots, you must walk only on clearly marked trails in strictly disciplined small groups, and you must be accompanied by local certified guides. Regulating tourism with such military efficiency may feel extreme, but it is essential under the circumstances. Ultimately, though, there has to be a limit and in the not-too-distant future, visitor numbers will have to be capped.
Did you know?
The Galápagos were discovered by chance in 1535 by Father Tomás Berlanga, Bishop of Panama
For more Trips of a Lifetime visit telegraph.co.uk/adventure
How to book
Because of the long distances involved, the only practical way to explore the Galápagos is by live-aboard boats, which travel between islands, mostly at night, and make different stops each day. More than 80 vessels are licensed to operate in the archipelago and there are countless combinations of stops and routes. Most cruises go ashore twice a day: 10 full days on the boat typically means 20 shore landings, 10-20 snorkels, and several panga rides (pangas are small, open outboard-powered boats) to about 10 different islands.
Exploring on your own is considerably more difficult. Getting around independently is tricky and all visitors must be accompanied by a licensed naturalist guide at all landing sites. But four islands (Santa Cruz, San Cristóbal, Floreana and Isabela) do have hotels of varying sizes and standards and a few boat operators offer day-trips.
Following in Darwin’s footsteps involves a flight from Quito or Guayaquil, on the mainland, to Baltra or San Cristóbal. Some cruises leave from Baltra (the dock is a five-minute drive from the air terminal). Others go from Puerto Ayora, the tourist hub on Santa Cruz and a relatively busy town, with a bank, ATM machine, taxis, pubs and even a cinema.
Puerto Ayora, the tourist hub of Santa Cruz
Wildlife Worldwide (wildlifeworldwide.com) offers a variety of tailor-made live-aboard tours on many different vessels carrying from 14 to 90 passengers. Prices start from £3,495 (including flights) for a typical eight-night itinerary.
Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent.co.uk) offers comfortable cruises on the 48-passenger Eclipse, which has the generous accommodation of a larger vessel and yet the atmosphere and exclusivity of a small yacht. Prices start from £3,995 (including flights) for a typical eight-night itinerary.
Exodus (exodus.co.uk) offers trips for small groups (4-16 passengers) aboard the Cachalote I. Prices start from £3,249 (including flights) for a typical 11-night itinerary.
Where and when to go
Wildlife activities vary greatly and each month has its own highlights. For example, green turtles begin their egg-laying in January; penguins interact with swimmers on Bartolomé mainly from May until the end of September; humpback whales begin to arrive in June; July through to the end of September is the best period for most seabird activity; peak pupping for sea lions is around August, while their pups play aqua-aerobics with snorkellers in November; and December is the month for hatching giant tortoise eggs. So there is always something going on.
The hot, humid, slightly rainy season (with occasional tropical showers) is from December to May (March and April are usually hottest and wettest). The seas tend to be calmer and clearer at this time of year (with 60ft-80ft visibility typical) and the water temperature averages 79F (26C), so this period is best for snorkelling.
The cool, drier, windier season (with occasional drizzle or mist) is from June to November. Sea temperatures at this time of year drop to as low as 66F (19C) and visibility often goes down to 30ft-50ft, while sea swells can make some landings tricky.
What to see
There are more than 60 approved visitor sites across the archipelago altogether, and where you go will influence what wildlife you are likely to see. With this in mind, most top 10 wishlists include the following:
Galápagos penguin
Found mainly around the westernmost islands, where particularly cool currents keep water temperatures low. They can be seen in several places (around Pinnacle Rock, on Bartolomé, is good) but breed only on Isabela and Fernandina.
Flightless cormorant
Like the penguin, breeds only on Fernandina and Isabela; found nowhere else.
Magnificent frigatebird
Found pretty much everywhere and a familiar sight from early in the trip.
Waved albatross
Breeds only on Española and, apart from a few pairs on Isla de la Plata, near the Ecuadorean mainland, nowhere else in the world; present April to December.
Land iguana
Galápagos land iguanas are found on the central and western islands; not surprisingly, Santa Fé is the only place to see the endemic Santa Fé land iguana.
Darwin’s finches
Probably the most famous birds in the archipelago. As a result of his five-week stay, Darwin speculated that the 13 species of these rather unassuming little birds had evolved from a single species on the mainland – and this set the stage for his major breakthrough. They are found throughout the archipelago, though some species are restricted to certain islands.
Galápagos giant tortoise
The best places to see them are in the Santa Cruz highlands and on Alcedo Volcano, Isabela, which host the largest populations; San Cristóbal, Santiago, Española and Pinzón also have tortoises.
Marine iguana
The only seafaring lizard in the world is impossible to miss. There may be as many as 300,000 marine iguanas across the archipelago, loafing around in the sun on rocky shores to raise their body temperature between dives.
Galápagos sea lion
Easy to find throughout the archipelago. One of the best places to snorkel with them, in calm water, is Santa Fé, but there are many other locations.
Galápagos fur seal
A little harder to find but there are one or two hot spots (the seal grotto on Santiago is the best place to view them up close).
Tactics
In many ways, Galápagos is much the same as when Darwin first set foot in the archipelago, back in 1835. But one major difference is the number of tourists, which has been increasing exponentially in recent years. In certain places, at certain times, the well-worn paths can be as busy as high-street pavements at lunchtime. But there are still quiet corners of the archipelago and the wildlife is just as approachable as it was in Darwin’s day.
The trick is to go ashore as early as possible, in order to avoid other groups (many don’t go until after a leisurely breakfast); this is also the best time to see the peak of animal activity in the best light. It’s also worth avoiding the busiest periods of the year (usually December to January and July to August).
Before you go
There’s probably no need to read On the Origin of Species before you go, but Galápagos Wildlife by David Horwell and Pete Oxford (published by Bradt) provides an excellent introduction to the islands and their wildlife.
Expert tips
The seas around the Galápagos are teeming with life and the snorkelling is terrific. So if you’ve never snorkelled before, take some lessons before your holiday.
The Charles Darwin Research Station is definitely worth a visit. A short walk from Puerto Ayora, it is the place to learn about the island’s natural history and the conservation work of the Charles Darwin Foundation. It also has a giant tortoise-breeding programme, where baby giant tortoises are reared.
- Have you been to the Galápagos Islands? Send your comments to yoursay@telegraph.co.uk or post them on our website at telegraph.co.uk/travel
Road-tripping Spain’s Mediterranean coast
Javier Panero Lonely Planet Author View gallerySunbathers lap up the sun on Mar Bella beach in Barcelona.
Damien SimonisLonely Planet Photographer
Sep 20, 2012 10:45:59 PM
Best places for a do-nothing vacation
- Leif Pettersen
- Lonely Planet Author
A while back, I wrote the definitive guide to ‘How to plan a do-nothing vacation.’ It’s a foolproof manual for engineering a low-impact, rejuvenating vacation like they used to do in olden times, before zip-lines, white water rafting and pooping in the forest became acceptable ‘leisure’ enticements.
Ideally, on a true do-nothing vacation you should aim to do little more than read, nap, eat and, if the situation lends itself, have regular sexual intercourse. As a general rule, if you’re burning more than 500 non-sex-having calories per day, you’re doing something wrong.
Being that vacations are now deliberately designed for anything but relaxation, I’d like to provide a little more direction as to where one might go to satisfy my painstakingly researched rules for do-nothing bliss.
Do nothing on a beach
Of course beaches. It’s the first thing most people envision when they think drooling inactivity. But choose carefully. Some beaches are burdened by distractions like parasailing touts, hotel DJs demanding volleyball volunteers and squeals from the decidedly mellowness-averse 24-hour party people. El Tunco, El Salvador and Ngapali Beach, Burma are two excellent examples of near-catatonic beach scenes combined with inexpensive yet wonderful food options.
Do nothing in a small town/island
Many people immediately feel claustrophobic dread at the mere idea of confining oneself to a small town or island. The stereotype of being surrounded by gap-toothed yokels and only having access to deep-fried, colon-shredding cuisine is perfectly justified in some cases, but exceptions to this nightmare are profuse. The islands of Ko Mak and Ko Kut in Thailand are the epitome of calculated inactivity, where the most strenuous part of one’s day is receiving a massage. Sulina, perched on the edge of the Danube Delta in Romania, is a fine example of sleepy, provincial tranquility paired with great-value seafood. The less hectic hilltop towns scattered across Tuscany, like Montepulciano or Massa Marittima, are perfect for sedate strolls, café lounging and memoir-worthy meals.
Do nothing on a farm
You can find these experiences in North America, Australia and even Asia, but no one does it better than Italy. Some farm stays have an interactive element, particularly the family-friendly places, allowing for animal interaction, egg collecting, horse riding and such, but mainly this is an opportunity to sit still, dozing and staring off into the distance to the tune of ducks quacking and frogs ribbiting. This exquisite daily laze is bookended with feasts featuring food grown/raised within walking distance of the dinner table.
Do nothing in a desert
Few places truly exemplify the absence of something to do like the desert. What can you do? It’s the desert! That said, there are desert locales where perhaps a little hiking wouldn’t do any harm on your do-nothing vacation, but don’t get carried away, nothing-seeker. Zion National Park, replete with captivating alien landscape red rock formations, is a prime example. The relatively bustling, but easily walkable city of St. George, Utah, roughly a one hour drive from the park, is a good base that includes a variety of worthwhile dining options.
Do nothing on a cruise ship
The Captain Obvious option. There’s plenty of reasons one might avoid a cruise, especially the ones that are effectively a family-friendly Las Vegas on water, with cheesy shows, unpalatable food and five-deck blackjack tables never more than 20 paces away. However, spending time on the smaller ships (ie carrying 100 passengers versus 3000) that endeavor to serve food you’d seek out at home, and that can maneuver into bays that the behemoth ships can only dream of, can be a deeply satisfying experience.
Do nothing on safari
Since you went through all the trouble to get to a safari-caliber destination, you’re probably going to want to see some wildlife. But after that, what about tacking on some extra time for sitting quietly and absorbing the other-worldly sights and sounds? Food and board on safaris can vary wildly. If you want relative comfort and to be fed extravagantly, you can pay dearly. If you’re not opposed to rustic accommodations and cafeteria style food, then you can find plenty of places to immerse yourself in exotic nature for a while.
Do nothing in a yurt
Both for the bragging rights of staying in a yurt and having the excuse to overuse the word ‘yurt’, which you cannot deny is a funny word. Yurt. You know what else earns colossal bragging rights? Casually saying the phrase ‘that time I was in Mongolia.’ Alas, not everyone has the time or money to drop in on Mongolia, so look into yurt hotels and rentals closer to home, which, you may be surprised to learn, are not that uncommon (see, for example, ‘It Yurts So Good’ a collection of rental yurts from Airbnb).
Leif Pettersen is a Lonely Planet author, freelance travel writer, yurt-lover and polyglot. He’s visited 48 countries (so far) and can be found @leifpettersen.
There’s a whole world out there in which you can do absolutely nothing. Luckily for you, a good portion of it is represented in Lonely Planet’s gorgeous pictorial One Planet. Bring a copy on your next do-nothing vacation and flip through 288 full-colour pages filled with inspiration for your next do-nothing trip.
Istanbul
Key West, Florida
The Bahamas
Paris
Schilthorn, Switzerland
Bregenz, Austria
Nunavut, Canada
STORY HIGHLIGHTS
- No film series has provided more travel inspiration than James Bond
- His cinematic stops have included the Bahamas, Paris and Swiss mountains
- "We are always looking to offer the audience the 'wow' experience," producers said.
(CNN) -- We love James Bond films for so many reasons: the handsome men and beautiful women, the cool gadgets and outrageous villains, the amazing chases and death-defying stunts. And, of course, the travel tips.
Film after film, no one has given us more inspiration to travel the world than James Bond.
"We are always looking to offer the audience the 'wow' experience of something amazing and different," said Callum McDougall, executive producer of the upcoming "Skyfall," the 23rd film in the James Bond franchise. "I think everyone who goes to see a Bond movie expects to be impressed by the look and the locations chosen. Certainly I was when I grew up watching them, and I don't think that's changed in the last 50 years."
There are two reasons to celebrate Mr. Bond in style: Global James Bond Day is October 5, commemorating the 50th anniversary of the theatrical release of "Dr. No," starring Sean Connery as Agent 007. And November 9 is the U.S. premiere of "Skyfall," starring the latest Bond, Daniel Craig. To mark both events, we give you (00)7 destinations where you can experience the world James Bond-style.
Religious conversions: Renovated monastery hotels and more
Turkey
Several locations in Turkey are featured in "Skyfall." "It is where East meets West, and the colors and vibrancy of Istanbul provided us with a great backdrop and such amazing locations as the Grand Bazaar," McDougall said.
Istanbul's Grand Bazaar has been a must-see since 1461. More than 550 years later, it attracts nearly a half-million visitors daily. Presumably few of them other than "Skyfall" director Sam Mendes envision its narrow, crowded aisles as a location for a high-speed chase. It is, however, an excellent place to purchase local handicrafts and to engage all your senses as you immerse yourself in the city.
Railway scenes for "Skyfall" were shot on and around Adana's dizzying Varda Railway Bridge in southern Turkey, and beach scenes -- including one that was meant to be in the Far East -- were shot near Fethiye on the Mediterranean coast. "Turkey actually allowed us to combine our needs of four different looks in one country, quite remarkable," McDougall added.
7 ways to go local while traveling
Key West, Florida
"Licence to Kill" (1989) kicks off with Timothy Dalton as Bond, parachuting in with his CIA pal Felix Leiter (David Hedison) to Felix's wedding at St. Mary's Star of the Sea Church in Key West after some insane aerial maneuvers.
Other scenes shot in the area include a car chase on Seven Mile Bridge, the segmented concrete (to make it hurricane-resistant) span you'll cross if you're driving to Key West, and a scene at the Ernest Hemingway Home in which M (Robert Brown) demands that Bond relinquish his "license to kill."
Hemingway, also no slouch in the adventure department, moved to the 907 Whitehead St. house in 1931. A guided tour shows you his writing studio and introduces you to the descendants of Hemingway's famous six-toed cats, who have unlimited license to roam the house and grounds.
The Bahamas
Of Bond's many visits to the Bahamas, the most memorable is Sean Connery's 1965 "Thunderball" battle in the underwater caves of the Exuma Cays. They've been known ever since as the Thunderball Grotto. (Connery returned there in 1983 for "Never Say Never Again.")
Several charter companies, including Four C's Adventures and the Island Routes 007 Thunderball Luxury Tour, will take you out to the grotto by boat and guide you on a snorkeling route to the inside of the caves, where light seems to stream in directly from heaven and colorful fish dart about below the water's surface. Some tours also include a visit to the nearby Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park and a stop at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, where you can dine or spend the night.
Paris
With an "I'm too old for this stuff" look on his face, Roger Moore as Bond chased Grace Jones as May Day up the steps of the Eiffel Tower in "A View to a Kill" (1985), only to watch her parachute off the top in one of the film's more memorable scenes. (It was almost as unforgettable as Duran Duran's video for the film's theme song.)
On a tour of the tower, you'll learn about Franz Reichfelt's tragic demonstration of his "parachute suit" in 1912, which should convince you that parachuting is not the thing to do here. However, if you're feeling fit, you can climb the 704 steps from the ground to the second floor. From there, you can catch the lift to the top, where you'll find a Champagne bar with killer views of its own.
Schilthorn, Switzerland
"On Her Majesty's Secret Service" (1969) took us to the mountaintop: the 2,970-meter-high Schilthorn in Switzerland's Bernese Alps, which George Lazenby as Bond skied down at breathtaking speed, with Telly Savalas as Blofeld in pursuit. It's one of the great movie ski chase scenes, now documented in an exhibit at Piz Gloria, the world's first revolving restaurant, which doubled as the Bleuchamp Institute for Allergy Research in the film.
Organized Bond-themed excursions that include a James Bond breakfast at Piz Gloria start from the car-free town of Mürren, or you can glide up the mountain yourself on a 32-minute aerial cable car trip that originates in Stechelberg. For more Bond-style adventure, ski the mountain's 15.8 km mixed-terrain Inferno course. Experienced skiers usually cover it in about 45 minutes; competitors in the annual Inferno Race -- the largest amateur ski race in the world -- can do it in 15.
Bregenz, Austria
The James Bond producers were so impressed by the 2007 production of Tosca at the open-air Seebühne floating stage on Lake Constance (or Bodensee), they knew they had to work it into a film. That's why in "Quantum of Solace" (2008), Daniel Craig finds himself chasing bad guys under the startling open-eye backdrop of the "Tosca" set designed by Johannes Leiacker.
The annual Bregenz Festival, approaching its 67th season, are only slightly less exciting. The next Opera on the Lake will be Mozart's "The Magic Flute," which opens July 17 and runs through the summer. Bregenz itself, in western Austria, is known for its contemporary architecture, such as the Festival House concert hall adjacent to the floating stage. Guided tours of both are conducted year-round.
Auyuittuq National Park, Canada
"Nobody Does it Better" than the opening sequence of "The Spy Who Loved Me" (1977), in which Roger Moore BASE jumps off the edge of a mountain and ... whoosh! A Union Jack parachute opens and wafts him to safety. "No effects, all done in camera for real," McDougall points out. (BASE is an acronym for Buildings, Antennas, Spans and Earth, the four things you can jump from.)
The mountain, with its distinctive twin flat-topped peaks at 6,598 feet, is Mount Asgard in Auyuittuq National Park on Baffin Island, Canada. Serious outdoors people find the 7,370-square-mile arctic park a haven of pristine beauty offering 24-hour daylight in summer.
Accessible via the Inuit hamlets of Pangnirtung and Qikiqtarjuaq, which can be reached only by small plane, the park requires that all visitors attend a safety orientation before they embark on their travels. For this level of adventure, only experienced wilderness travelers -- and MI-6 agents -- need apply.
Like any great city, London's got plenty of insider favorites: places you'll hear more British accents than American ones or foreign languages. It just so happens that in the capital, conveniently, there are plenty of these spots hiding just under visitors' noses in the center of town. Here are the places where locals outnumber tourists just blocks away from some of the best-known landmarks around.
The Golden Hind
Fish and chips are practically the national dish, but in central London it can be hard to find an authentic, affordable version of this fabulous fried classic. Unless, that is, you head to The Golden Hind, one of the city's best fish and chip shops, tucked on Marylebone Lane, an easy stroll from Oxford Street right off Marylebone High Street. It's more a place to sit down for a quick meal than for what the Brits call a "takeaway"—although you can indeed get your order to go—and has been filling up hungry Londoners for nearly 100 years.
Insider Tip: Don't miss the mushy peas—a classic accompaniment to fish and chips that can sometimes be bland. Here it's fresh and delicious.
Also Nearby: The charming shops of Marylebone High Street, like Emma Bridgewater and Daunt Books.
The Churchill Afternoon Tea
Yes—an afternoon tea suggestion from an insider! Shopping enthusiasts will need sustenance after combing the racks at Selfridges and Marks and Spencer near Marble Arch, and the best option for this indulgent afternoon treat is the nearby Hyatt Regency London Churchill Hotel. The dining room is soothingly quiet and calm, facing a small park square, and in spite of its convenient location, it's less crowded than many other hotels' tea service.
Insider Tip: Book ahead for afternoon tea, particularly if you're planning to go on a weekend, and ask for one of the tables by the window for the best people watching.
Also Nearby: St. Christopher's Place, a tempting cluster of boutiques and cafes, nestled right behind Oxford Street.
Absolute Vintage
London's got no shortage of clothing designers, stylists, and fashion-forward mavens, and many of them stop by Absolute Vintage for inspiration or to snap up something chic and affordable to wear. This cavernous shop sits in trendy East London on Hanbury Street, just a few minutes from the popular Spitalfields Market. It's truly crammed with clothes, shoes, and accessories for men and women, so allow plenty of time to rummage through the racks. There is also a smaller branch of the store on Berwick Street in Soho, but this (the original location) offers a much larger selection of potential finds.
Insider Tip: Be sure to check out the glass cabinet of high-end designer bags—most are quite battered, but it often includes used pieces from brands like Chanel and Gucci for just a few hundred dollars a piece.
Also Nearby: The Andaz Liverpool Street hotel has several inviting restaurants, as well as a striking champagne bar, and it's conveniently just next door to the Liverpool Street tube station.
The York and Albany
Chef Gordon Ramsay—yes, of screaming obscenities on TV fame—built his reputation on formal (and pricey) cuisine. His Camden restaurant, The York and Albany serves up the delicious food you'd expect from the celeb-chef, but in a relaxed, pub-like atmosphere that's fun and friendly. Right around the corner from Camden Market, there are also 9 hotel bedrooms in the building—an ideal option if you're just in London for the weekend or prefer accommodations with a residential feel.
Insider Tip: The standout meal of the week here is "Sunday roast," the traditional British meal (served all day) of roasted meat with classic side dishes like Yorkshire pudding.
Melrose and Morgan
No matter what you've heard, it's not always raining in London; there are plenty of lovely, sunny days and (bonus) in the winter, it's still warmer than many US cities. (We're not bitter, though.) On those many nice days, locals run to Melrose and Morgan in Primrose Hill for a picnic of prepared dishes, sandwiches, cheeses, and breads. (There are also delicious deserts here.) It's in one of London's loveliest residential neighborhoods—where you just might see a celebrity that lives nearby, like Daniel Craig or Kate Moss—and is an easy stroll from the London Zoo and Regent's Park.
Insider Tip: The store also sells canvas totes, mugs, and locally-sources salts and sweets—all of which make unique souvenirs and gifts to bring home.
Also Nearby: Do not miss out on visiting the giraffes and penguins at the London Zoo. It may sound like a kid's activity, but trust us, you'll love it.
Photo Credits: Insider's Guide to London Thumbnail: Courtesy of Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill; The Golden Hind: Golden Hind, Marylebone, London by Ewan Munro Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike License; The Churchill Afternoon Tea: Courtesy of Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill; Absolute Vintage: Courtesy of Absolute Vintage; The York and Albany: Courtesy of York & Albany; Melrose and Morgan: Courtesy of Melrose and Morgan
F. Martin Ramin for The Wall Street Journal (2)Merù Gioielli charm bracelets; Roman coin necklace
Zeno ZottiThe shop exterior
A NAME THAT CHIC Italian mamas have been whispering into their daughters' ears since 1962, Merù Gioielli is an old-world-style jeweler nestled on a side street in Milan's posh Brera shopping district. Their delicate gold chain bracelets adorned with enamel medallions of daisies, roses, angels and various animals decorate the arms of Margherita Missoni and other girls about town. Another favorite is the shop's gold-encased ancient Roman coin necklace charms. These are just some of the handmade treasures that can be purchased in the store, by email or by phone. 9K gold bracelets, $246; coin necklace, price upon request, Merù Gioielli, Via Solferino, 3 20121 Milan, +39 02-8646-0700, info@merugioielli.it
—Alexa BrazilianA version of this article appeared October 5, 2012, on page D8 in the U.S. edition of The Wall Street Journal, with the headline: The Discreet Charms of Milan.
Aug 6, 2010 5:02:43 AM
Alternative Italy: 5 new places to discover
Italy has always been a tourist hot spot. In this five-part extract from Lonely Planet Magazine (Aug 2010), we recommend five alternatives to big-ticket Italy – fabulous Italian places that have been almost flying under the radar. They’re well worth exploring, plus you’ll dodge the tourist crowds and get another take on delicious Italy.
Part 1: Like Tuscany? Try the Langhe Valley.
Explore the hilltop villages of the Langhe, northern Italy, sample the region’s wines, gazing at the undulating hills of vines.
Part 2: Like the Amalfi Coast? Try the Gargano Promontory.
This area is a tumultuous mix: bleached sea cliffs, dense dark-green scrub, wild orchids, pine forests and silver beaches. A protected national park, it’s the kind of place where, if you picnic on the clifftops, you’re likely to be joined by an inquisitive herd of goats.
Part 3: Like Florence? Try Bologna.
Explore this incredible city that is the colour of autumn leaves: rust, gold and dark apricot. Massimo Medica, director of Bologna’s Musei Civici d’Arte Antica, explains, ‘The colour of the city is terracotta; the surrounding land is rich in clay, from which the bricks were made.’
Part 4: Like The Dolomites? Try Monti Sibillini.
Split between Umbria and Le Marche, this mountain range mixes mountaintop pastures, weathered crags, royal-blue lakes and sharp ridges.
Part 5: Like Lake Como and Garda? Try the Lazio Lakes.
Few outsiders have heard of the lakes of Lazio, but the region around Rome harbours brimming volcanic craters, great pools of blue.
Indulge in the changing of the leaves and the flavors of the season during Tokyo's most underrated time to visit.
Many travelers, from first-timers to old-hand Japanophiles, consider the autumn months the single best time to visit Japan. The punishing heat and humidity of summer have burned away, and there's no threat of drenching rains. But for locals, there are two more important reasons to welcome fall: koyo and shun-no-aji -- the "changing of the leaves" and the "flavors of the season."
Let's take a look at some of the best places to do both in and around Tokyo (though Tokyo is far from the only city to appreciate Japan's charms of autumn!)
Koyo: Autumn's Colors
While spring cherry-blossom viewing parties are better known, Japanese treat the changing of the leaves with equal reverence, particularly in places where they form a beautiful backdrop for temples and shrines. In the Tokyo area, the leaves generally begin to change in late October, with colors peaking in mid-November and lasting until early December.
Mount Takao: A holy peak located just an hour from downtown Tokyo by train, Mount Takao is a great place to visit any time of the year. It also happens to be one of the single best spots for catching autumn colors near the capitol. Home to several Buddhist temples, the great thing about Mount Takao is that it's geared towards nearly any level of climber, from experienced to elderly -- there are even chair-lifts and a funicular railway. But this same ease of access means heavy weekend crowds at peak viewing times.
Mt. Takao access: Take the Keio Line from Shinjuku Station to Takaosanguchi Station (roughly 1 hr.).
Nikko: This day trip from Tokyo is better known for Toshogu, the gorgeously gaudy shrine dedicated to the memory of Japan's most powerful shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu. The grounds of Toshogu Shrine and neighboring Rinnoji Temple (both currently undergoing renovations but still open to the public) are great places to catch the confluence of man-made and natural colors. And Ryuzu-no-taki falls, located an hour from Toshogu by bus, is equally dramatic in a totally natural setting, with a roaring waterfall framed by crimson and yellow leaves.
Nikko access: From Asakusa, take the Tobu Nikko Line to Nikko Station (roughly 2 hrs.)
Ryuzu-no-taki access: Take a Tobu bus from Nikko Station bound for Yumoto Onsen; disembark at Ryuzu-no-taki station (roughly 1 hr.).Shun-no-aji: Autumn's Flavors
In this modern age of greenhouses and fish farms, very few fruits, vegetables, and fish go out of stock at any time of the year. But many connoisseurs feel that certain foods are at their best in certain seasons, particularly with regards to fish. Sanma (saury), kuri (chestnuts), kaki (oyster) and matsutake (mushrooms) are all on the menu in fall.
The good news is, nearly any restaurant worth its salt will feature seasonal items on its menu. Here are a pair of our favorites.
Kuroba-tei: Located in the elegant Tokyo neighborhood of Kagurazaka, Kuroba-tei specializes in kyo-kaiseki (Kyoto-style set course) cuisine, which is known for its attention to seasonal detail. Situated in an old house, the atmosphere is romantic and relaxed. This is slow food at its fines -- set aside a couple of hours to savor the multiple handmade courses served over the evening. Reservations required. 3-6-53 Kagurazaka; tel. 03/5206-6997. Courses: ¥5,000-¥8,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Lunch & Dinner daily. Train: Iidabashi.
Sakana Bar Ippo: Izakaya (Japanese-style gastropubs) are the way most Tokyoites spend a night out on the town. And this little gem, tucked away in an Ebisu neighborhood, is a great way to get a taste for the seasons alongside a healthy "wine list" of regional saké (some fifty varieties at last check). Fish are imported fresh daily from nearby Tsukiji market, and the menu features an ever-changing list of foods based on the season. Ebisu 1-22-10, Kamasuya 2F; tel. 03/3445-8418. Tapas-style plates from ¥650. Sake from ¥500. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner daily. Train: Ebisu.
Matt Alt is a translator and author based in Tokyo, Japan and the author of the forthcoming Frommer's Japan Day by Day. His website can be found at http://altjapan.typepad.com.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
When the temperatures have cooled and the crowds are gone—this is the time of year I crave a trip to Sicily. Fall travel equals more availability (and better prices) in hotel rooms, open tables overlooking the Mediterranean at restaurants, and empty roads for rumbling along with the windows open at the pace of your choosing.
Some think of Sicily for swimming and beaches, but for me, affordable wines, chocolate, cheese, and fresh seafood come to mind. A province called Ragusa in the southeastern corner of Sicily provides all the necessary ingredients for a satisfying food tour. One boutique hotel serves as a stylish starting point (and resting place) between meals, tastings, and afternoon naps. Let food lead the way to discovering a region that is rich in history and culinary tradition.
La Moresca
Located in the seaside town of Marina di Ragusa, La Moresca is a 4-star boutique hotel in a renovated mansion. This Maison de Charme is a patchwork of the past and present, mixing modern comforts with traditional elements like original tile floors. Breakfast is served each morning in a courtyard under the shade of a 150-year old lemon tree. Each of the 15 bedrooms is unique, and features striking black and white photography of life in Sicily. This comfortable design hotel is the perfect base for an exploration of the region's best bites.
Fresh Seafood
One of the top places to taste local flavors is just beyond the doorstep of La Moresca. Start the day lounging with a cappuccino on the rooftop tower solarium of the hotel and then stroll down to the waterfront for lunch at Trattoria da Carmelo. At a table overlooking the Mediterranean, seafood is presented in simple, aromatic dishes that are perfectly executed. I still dream of the pasta with fresh seafood I ate here one sunny afternoon, washed down with a cold glass of white wine.
Local Chocolate
The Baroque town of Modica—the "town of a hundred churches"—is located a 35-minute drive from La Moresca. Architecture ranging from the 14th to 18th centuries is impressive, but today, Modica gains the most attention for its chocolate. The fragrance of chocolate fills the air here, tempting visitors into shops to taste local chocolates laced with vanilla, cinnamon, and even hot chili peppers. The chocolate has a signature grainy texture from sugar that doesn't melt during the cooking process. Another mouthwatering way to sample this local specialty is with a steaming cup of hot chocolate.
Regional Reds
Many wine lovers are familiar with Nero D'Avola, one of Sicily's delicious and affordable red wines. Travelers can venture beyond the borders of the province of Ragusa to the seaside town of Avola in search of the wine's origin, or check out a regional red wine instead. Located just 40 minutes from La Moresca, Piana di Vittoria is home of a local red called Cerasuolo di Vittoria. This bright, cherry-red colored wine is a prized product of the region and is a great pairing with regional cuisine.
Old School Cheese
No food tour of Sicily would be complete without chasing down local cheeses. One of the best is caciocavallo ragusano, a cow's milk cheese made from an old traditional method dating back to the 1500s. This intense but delicate cheese if often grated over pastas in the region but is also a great match for a strong glass of red wine. One of the best ways to learn about the process of making this cheese is to visit the cheese ripening caves in the town of Ragusa.
Wherever you start, make sure to slow down and savor Sicily's flavors one by one. A day could easily be spent seeking each of these local products, and during the fall, those days will be pleasantly warm, breezy, and crowd-free.
Insider Tip: Ragusa is home to several UNESCO World Heritage Sites—including the towns of Modica, Ragusa, and Scicli—that contain charming narrow lanes and beautiful Baroque architecture.
Freelance writer Jessica Colley covers cuisine, culture, the arts, and experiential travel. She is currently based in New York City and called Dublin, Ireland home for several years. You can follow her on Twitter @jessicacolley or check out her "Writer in the Kitchen" series on her blog The Great American Travel Dream.
Want to explore more of Sicily?
Take a look at our insider's guide to Taormina, Sicily; and make sure to scope out these five must-eat foods in Sicily. You can diet when you get home.
Photo credits: La Moresca courtesy of La Moresca; Trattoria da Carmelo courtesy of Jessica Colley; Nero D'avola grapes in Sicily courtesy of Flickr/VinoFamily
More by Jessica Colley, Fodor's Contributor
Whoever said that life is about the journey and not the destination certainly wasn’t a frequent traveller. It seems that the more you travel, the more arduous your journeys become until you’d rather not see another plane, coach or car ever again. That certainly doesn’t apply for my favourite mode of travel though: rail travel.
You’d think that I’d get tired of train journeys seeing as I commute every day but I don’t. While I look to plane trips to South Africa and car trips up to Liverpool with a sense of dread, I still get excited about long journeys by rail, such as the one I took up to Scotland in 2010.
Rail travel around Great Britain is incredibly easy and it can be quite cheap too. Not only that, but you can see some of the most incredible views and scenery from trains. I’m going to tell you about some of my favourite rail journeys and others that would have been far more fun by rail. Make sure you check out my five top tips for rail travel at the end of the post!
London to Liverpool Lime Street
With the exception of my daily commute to work, my most frequently travelled route is between London Euston and Liverpool Lime Street. Since 1993, I have been taking this train up north to see my father who lives in Rainhill. It is one of my favourite journeys and I have fond memories of travelling through cloudy and moody landscapes as I listened to equally gloomy music on my Walkman.
Liverpool also happens to be one of my favourite cities on earth, in fact it was my favourite until I visited New York in 2009. Advance tickets start at just £12 and you can be in Liverpool in just two hours.
London to Betws-y-Coed via Chester and Llandudno
Our journey to Betws-y-coed in Wales last year was eventful. We drove over a nail on the way up and did not realise it for a really long time, which makes sense as it is a really long journey by car. Imagine my chagrin then when we finally got there and I realised that there was a rail station across the road from our hotel? While there are no direct trains to Betws-y-Coed from London, you can get there via Chester and Llandudno in about 4 hours. Chester is one of my favourite towns in England so I would recommend spending a night there and exploring this fabulous walled city before making your way to Betws-y-Coed.
London to Bath
Rail tickets to Bath are ridiculously cheap, starting from £9.50 one way for Advance tickets. One in Bath, it is possible to explore this whole town by foot and to visit the exquisite Roman Baths. We visited Bath back in 2008 and of all the places I’ve visited in Britain, this is the place I most want to return to. Considering that it takes just 1:30 hours to get there from London Paddington, I’d say it is definitely time we planned a day trip!
London to Ryde Pier Head, Isle of Wight
One of the best rail experiences I have had was on the old Isle of Wight Steam Railway but did you know that you can travel from London to the Isle of Wight by train? In under 3 hours you can travel from London Waterloo to Ryde Pier Head and the cost of your rail tickets includes your ferry crossing from Portsmouth to the island. Once there, it is really easy to travel around the island by bus or train, making this one of the most accessible of England’s islands.
Tickets cost from £27.45 one way.
London to Gleneagles via Edinburgh
Without a doubt, the best journey I have ever taken by train was the one from London Kings Cross to Gleneagles in Scotland on East Coast Trains. The journey is quite long at just under 6 hours but it was so exciting that we didn’t notice the length. Our journey took us through York (where we tried in vain to spot York Minster), via Newcastle with its bridges and unique architecture (I’ve wanted to visit ever since), past breathtaking coastal scenery at Berwick-upon-Tweed, up through Edinburgh and finally onto the gorgeous Victorian rail station at Gleneagles.
What impressed me most about this journey was the fast wi-fi, the comfort of the seats and the journey (it is not a Pendolino train) and the handy trolley service which you don’t get very often on train journeys anymore.
Did you know that you can book train tickets for any journey in the UK at EastCoast.co.uk? Unlike other sites, they do not charge booking fees or fees for credit or debit cards and they allow you to easily search between the fastest or cheapest journeys.
Five tips for rail travel in Britain
Always book your tickets in advance. The best time to book rail tickets is three months in advance but you can buy Advance fares as little as two weeks in advance.
Buy two single fares instead of a return ticket. For some reason, Advance fares are available on tickets for single journeys so you may make the greatest savings if you book two single fares rather than one return fare. Always check both options.
Always arrive on time. Trains in Britain wait for no one so always arrive with at least 30 minutes to spare. If nothing else, it will give you time to secure a good seat and stow your luggage close to you.
Don’t use credit card pick up. There is a nifty option to swipe your card at the station and pick up your tickets on the day you travel. Nifty, that is, if your card isn’t lost, stolen or replaced by the bank in the meantime because when that happens, your booking pretty much becomes void and many a traveller has been forced to buy new tickets. Have your tickets posted to you.
Use a railcard. Network Railcards cost from £28 a year and offer 1/3 discount off most rail fares. Therefore, by my calculations, you’d just need to spend £84 on rail travel in any one year to make this a worthwhile purchase. Not only that but up to three adults can travel with you and they will also get 1/3 off their rail fare. If you have a Gold Card (annual season ticket) like me, you also get 1/3 discount on rail journeys for groups of up to four adults.
This post is sponsored by East Coast Trains but all opinions contained herein are my own.
Jun 22, 2012 6:53:46 PM
Top 10 spookiest buildings around the world
- Andy Murdock
- Lonely Planet Author
Have you ever visited a building that gave you the creeps? These 10 buildings around the world are guaranteed to send a shiver down your spine.
Still under construction, Chiang Rai‘s controversial modern temple is part traditional Buddhist temple, part white-frosted wedding cake, and part avant-garde art with a disturbing penchant for pointiness. Visitors must cross a bridge to the temple over a field of fangs and hundreds of pleading white arms and suffering faces of statues reaching up from hell. While stark whiteness predominates, the inside and other parts of the temple compound (including the toilets) are sparkling gold.
Wat Rong Khun is open daily; the White Temple is a short drive from Chiang Rai.
By the mid-1800s, the crypt at the Sedlec monastery had been a popular burial site for centuries, with plague outbreaks and Hussite Wars contributing thousands of remains. In the 1870s a local woodcarver was hired to make creative use of the bones that had been piling up in the crypt. This was no minor task: the ossuary contains the remains of over 40,000 people, many of which were used to decorate the chapel. The effect is as beautiful as it is macabre: elaborate light fixtures, arrays of bells, furnishings, splashy wall treatments and coats of arms are all loving recreated from skulls and bones of all sizes. Is that chandelier staring back at you?
To reach the monastery, drag your bones 800m south from Kutná Hora’s main train station. More gory details at www.kostnice.cz.
3. Ryugyong Hotel, Pyongyang, North Korea
Under construction since 1987, the massive and still unfinished 105-story Ryugyong Hotel in Pyongyang looks like a luxury hotel designed for Mordor. Nicknamed the ‘Hotel of Doom’ and described as ‘the worst building in the history of mankind’ by Esquire, construction halted due to lack of funding, and the partially completed building stood windowless and looming ominously over the city for 16 years before work resumed in 2008. Strikingly modern when first designed, time has not been kind to the building, which now looks simultaneously menacing, dated, and unconscionably extravagant relative to the impoverished populace.
Once granted a visa, visitors to North Korea have little choice in where they are allowed to visit or photograph, but at 105 stories, the Ryugyong Hotel is hard to miss from anywhere in the capital.
Běijīng’s most morbid shrine, the operating Taoist shrine of Dongyue Temple is an unsettling but fascinating place to visit. Stepping through the entrance you find yourself in Taoist Hades, where tormented spirits reflect on their wrongdoings. The ‘Life and Death Department’ is a spiritual place to ponder your eventual demise, the ‘Department for Wandering Ghosts’ and the ‘Department for Implementing 15 Kinds of Violent Death’ have slightly less inviting names, while the ill might seek out the ‘Deep-Rooted Disease Department’. Other halls are less morbid, but no less interesting. Visit during the Chinese New Year or the Mid-Autumn Festival to see the temple at its most vibrant.
Paying the extra Yuan for a guide can be helpful for interpreting the aspects of the temple that might otherwise defy explanation.
5. Lemp Mansion, St Louis, USA
Reputed to be one of the USA’s most haunted houses (if there are degrees of hauntedness), St Louis’ Lemp Mansion has a long history of odd occurrences. Charles Lemp committed suicide in the house in 1949 and, ever since, strange things have taken place at the house, including doors that swing open spontaneously, glasses that leap off tables and break, and a tragically short-lived reality TV show. Today, the mansion operates as a restaurant and inn that capitalises on the morbid fame through murder mystery dinner theatre, Halloween parties and weekly tours by a noted ‘paranormal investigator’. Stay the night if you dare.
The mansion can be found just off I-55, south of the Anheuser-Busch Brewery. Find more information on spooky events and reservations at www.lempmansion.com.
A spiky Gothic fantasy with more than a passing resemblance to a Thai temple, the monument to Sir Walter Scott is a beloved fixture of the Edinburgh skyline. Just 61m high, the climb to the top doesn’t sound daunting until you find yourself wedged into the preposterously tiny spiral staircase. The final curve is so notoriously tight that squeezing yourself out the final doorway requires the flexibility of a spelunker. Edinburgh mystery writer Ian Rankin once set the scene of the crime at the top of the Scott Monument, with much of the story focusing on the physics of getting a stiff cadaver down the twisty staircase. Not a claustrophobe? This might make you think otherwise.
For history and seasonal visiting hours, see www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk.
All of the inhabitants of the catacombs below Palermo’s Capuchin Monastery are decked out in their Sunday best. Unfortunately, that Sunday was several hundred years ago, and the outfits have fared significantly better that the wearers. The mummified bodies and skeletons of some 8000 Palermitans from the 1600s through to the 1800s are kept in the catacombs for all to see, some so well preserved that they look eerily lifelike. Men and women occupy separate corridors, and within the women’s area there’s a special virgin-only section. Spooky for adults, probably terrifying for the kiddies – be warned.
The catacombs are a 15-minute walk from Palermo’s Piazza Independenza along Via Cappuccini or a short bus ride.
8. Chornobyl Reactor #4, Ukraine
Famously the site of the world’s biggest nuclear disaster in 1986, the 30km-radius exclusion zone is mostly uninhabited today, but limited tours have been available since 2002 for travellers who are curious enough to get a glimpse of the industrial ghost town and aren’t put off by the ominous click of a Geiger counter. Factories, homes, schools, and a particularly creepy abandoned amusement park stand decaying and choked with weeds, but remain much as they looked at the time of disaster. The Ukrainian government has indicated that the exclusion zone will be increasingly open to travellers in the coming years. Just don’t step on the radioactive moss.
The best way to visit Chornobyl is to use one of the several Kiev-based agencies such as Solo East or New Logic.
Want to spend the night in the slammer? Why not make it a jail haunted by the spirits of former inmates and deemed unsuitable for prisoners in the early1970s due to appalling conditions? Opened in 1862, the Carleton County Gaol was in operation for over a century, but it was hardly a hit with the prisoners who complained of cramped conditions and sanitation problems. It might not have been suitable for prisoners at the time, but if you’re a traveller on a tight budget and don’t mind that your room happens to be a prison cell and your bunkmate might be spectral, it’s perfect. As a ‘prisoner’ today, your punishment includes parking, wifi, and a games lounge.
Book online to get yourself locked up for the night in the Canadian capital. Just make sure you book a check-out time too…
10. White Alice, Alaska, USA
A gold-rush town a century ago and the finishing line for the Iditarod dog-sled race today, Nome is the perfect example of a honky-tonk, almost-at-the-Arctic-Circle frontier town. Overlooking the town and the Bering Straits from the top of Anvil Mountain is White Alice, a weird Cold War relic. From down in the town it looks like a bizarre space-age Stonehenge, closer up it could be a film set for a shoot of the Victorian-era War of the Worlds. The four strange corrugated-iron sound reflector structures were intended for listening to suspicious Soviet activity.
For a real Alaskan experience visit White Alice during the midnight sun: Nome and the Bering Straits at your feet, the Arctic Circle just to the north and Siberia not far west.
Looking for something a bit less spooky? Perhaps comfy, exciting, adventurous, luxurious or delicious? In Lonely Planet’s 1000 Ultimate Sights, you’ll find travel experiences to suit every taste.
Embrace daily life
Embrace daily life
Embrace daily life
Embrace daily life
Embrace daily life
Embrace daily life
STORY HIGHLIGHTS
- Visit a salon or a house of worship for insights into everyday life
- Skip restaurants with menus translated into 10 languages
- Rent an apartment so that you can take advantage of the local markets
- Become a regular at a local cafe or bar
(CNN) -- Looking to create lasting travel memories? Learning to live like the locals when you're on vacation is the way to go.
As someone who's happiest with a passport and a plane or train ticket in hand, I've found that my most engaging travel adventures come not from what I see, but what I experience. No matter where I go in the world, I try to embrace the place on its own terms, finding ways to fit into the local culture rather than expecting it to accommodate mine.
"That's so fundamental to what I talk about," says travel guru Rick Steves, host and writer of the popular public television series "Rick Steves' Europe." A best-selling author of more than 50 European travel books, he passionately encourages Americans to experience the world as "temporary locals."
"You learn something; you get out of your comfort zone. You empathize with people; you become part of the party. If you're in a little town, step into a bingo parlor and if there's a game going on, join in and make some new friends. If you're on a train, bring along some food and start a picnic or a potluck."
Here are seven ways to escape the "tourist trap" rut and live like a local on your next trip, whether it takes you to a world-class global city or a charming small village across the state.
Rent a real apartment. I love great hotels as much as the next traveler, but nothing thrills me more than returning "home" to my own flat during a busy day -- or at the end of a long one.
"You create this little nest you can call your own. You don't have housekeepers running in and out," says Adrian Leeds, a New Orleans native and French property consultant whose business, Parler Paris Apartments, owns and/or manages nearly 30 flats in central Paris.
Prepare your own meals (or bring them home and dine on real dishes); invite new friends over for cocktails. Splurge on a spot swankier than yours at home, or save money by staying in a charming little studio.
The point is to savor the rhythms of daily life as local residents do. But, says Leeds, who has appeared on nine France-based episodes of HGTV's "House Hunters International," this "requires a slightly more independent traveler."
Make a neighborhood spot your "second home." When I'm on the road, I'm often flying solo, but one way to keep loneliness at bay and casually meet folks in the place I'm visiting is by frequenting the same local spots again and again, even if I'm there for a short time.
I find a cozy café with free WiFi, take my laptop and hang. Same thing in the afternoon for aperitifs: I look for a place near the apartment I'm usually renting, and one where the wait staff is friendly to women who come in alone. Whether you're traveling on business or for pleasure, isn't it nice to create your own "Cheers," that out-of-town spot where at least somebody knows your name?
Dine where the locals do. I'm a fan of so-called "hole-in-the-wall" restaurants, those tiny, often ethnic eateries that don't show up in any popular guidebook and are well off the tourist path.
You'll usually find them by chatting up locals, perhaps when you're both sitting in a park or traveling on a train. (I've found that if you want to see where regular folks eat on a precious night out, taxi drivers — no matter the city or town — always know about deliciously affordable spots.)
If you're traveling abroad, dash past that place with menus posted outside in four different languages, and the one where some poor waiter is standing outside trying to beckon you inside by hollering at you in English.
Get a lift on public transit. Whether you've barely got money for the bus or can afford your own driver, nothing gives you a sense of place like its public transportation (for better or worse). As someone who sold her car 10 years ago and relied upon Chicago's CTA buses and "L" trains to get around, checking out other cities' public transit is as exhilarating to me as a trip to a theme park or great museum is to others.
I'm a huge fan of Washington's super-efficient Metro, absolutely adore the London Underground and the city's iconic red double-decker buses, and never cease to be amazed at the slices of life I see on the Paris Metro.
Not only is it a far more affordable way to get around, but once you've ridden a jam-packed rush hour train or bus with the locals, you'll feel like kindred spirits.
Or generate your own power and bike it in cities like Portland, Oregon, and super-cycle-friendly Amsterdam.
Stir your soul: Visit a house of worship. Want to experience local culture in one of its most authentic and expressive ways? Even if you're not religious, consider adding somebody's worship service to your itinerary.
I find there's something special and sacred about these visits, which have included the cozy Rome Baptist Church in the Eternal City, the super-friendly and diverse Anglican/Episcopal St. George's Church in Barcelona, social justice-focused Glide Memorial Church in San Francisco and London's famed Westminster Abbey.
But why not check out a worship style or faith tradition totally different from your own? Whatever your beliefs, you'll likely come away with a new appreciation for your hosts' differences and for those things that connect us.
Drop in to a beauty salon or barber shop. While getting your hair shampooed or mustache trimmed, you'll hear talk about politics, about religion, about the upcoming season of your host country's equivalent to "Dancing with the Stars."
There are few better ways to get a sense of what "real people" are talking and thinking about in the place you're temporarily calling home. I'm always amazed how travelers and other new arrivals to France like me find their way to Paris' Mark Clement Salon, where the Los Angeles native's multi-ethnic clients are buzzing away about some hot topic in both English and French.
If you've got the nerve, why not go for a new color or cut? Says Parler Paris Apartments' Adrian Leeds: "It gives you something to go home with that's truly a memory."
Leave time for lingering. Think about it, in every real life, there's down time. But when we're on vacation, running from this monument to that museum to that performance? Not so much.
Advises Leeds: "Don't program your day. If you really want to feel like a local, do nothing. Pretend you don't have to be anywhere. Just sit there and watch the world go by."
Maureen Jenkins is a freelance travel, food and lifestyles writer. A Chicago native, she lives outside Paris and blogs about her expatriate life at UrbanTravelGirl.com.
How do you live like a local when traveling? Please share your tips in the comments section below.
Oct 26, 2011 12:34:22 AM
Swimming with whale sharks in Mexico
- Greg Benchwick
- Lonely Planet Author
Everybody knows you go to Honduras’ Bay Islands to swim with whale sharks. Well at least everybody who loves the ocean, loves diving and has the complete box set of Jacques Cousteau on DVD.
But the small, funky island of Isla Holbox – a tiny spit of sand just a day’s travel from the glitzy (and slightly chintzy) Mexican resort city of Cancún – is an equally great spot to swim with the biggest fish in the sea, and the island is an attraction in its own right.
The waters surrounding Isla Holbox are slightly muddier than those found to the south, along the Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo, but the reward is an island paradise where people get around by golf-cart and your biggest worry of the day is whether to walk to the end of the island for bird watching, hang out in a hammock or cruise out with your buddies for a day of whale watching. Lucky for you, it is easy enough to fit all of these into a couple of days on the island.
A day with whale sharks is unlike anything you will have ever experienced. From July to September (July is the best month) a couple of thousand of these big boys come to feed off the plankton-rich seas. Once you are in the water, face to face with a 15-ton, 15m-long giant, the rest of the world seems to fade away. Their grace, colourful spots (some folks even call them “dominoes”) and unworldly bulk take you back to the time of dinosaurs and leviathans.
And while such close interactions with wildlife is definitely a delicate topic, local tour operators have teamed up with the World Wildlife Fund to create some best practices for the tours. Visitors are required to wear a life jacket or wetsuit, you cannot feed the fish or submerge yourself beneath them, only three people (plus a guide) are allowed in the water at one time, and, no, you cannot catch a ride on their fin.
On your way back to the island, ask your guide if you can stop for a snorkel. If you are lucky, you may spot a manta ray soaring through the shallow depths.
Eats, treats and sleeps
It sometimes feels as if there are more Italians living on Holbox than on Italy’s own Amalfi Coast, and you will find good Italian cuisine, as well as fantastic seafood and international offerings in the small town centre (you can walk end to end in less than 10 minutes). Los Pelícanos and the Buena Vista Grill are island favourites. Carioca’s is a good spot for sunset cocktails. And when it comes to bedtime, head over to the Hostel Ida y Vuelta for digs on a dime or splurge on the refined beachside resort at Casa Sandra.
Alamy
Châtillon-sur-Marne in the Marne Valley
Looking northward from the floor of the Vallée de la Marne, in France's Champagne region, one can just make out the outline of the abbey of St.-Sindulphe. Standing tall, above a thin expanse of flat land that follows the river Marne as it cuts through the elevated chalky plains of the Montagne de Reims, the abbey sits forlornly, looking out from the village of Hautvillers.
Getty Images
The cathedral of Notre-Dame de Reims
It is here, high above a blanket of south-facing vines planted with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, that one could argue lies the heart of Champagne. For inside the St.-Sindulphe church, once part of the abbey of Hautvillers, lays the black marble tombstone of Dom Pierre Pérignon—the 17th-century Benedictine monk widely credited with the invention of sparkling wine.
Whether Dom Pérignon invented the toasty, sparkling wine we now call Champagne is open to discussion but we do know that from the abbey of Hautvillers he wrote "L'Art de bien traiter la vigne et du Champagne" ("How to care for the vine and Champagne")—one of the most influential books in the history of early viticulture.
For travelers wanting to pay homage to the Dom Pérignon legend, the steep climb up to the top of the medieval village of Hautvillers is worth tackling. In the late afternoon sun one is struck by the tranquillity of the spot but also rewarded with his inspiration, a panoramic view of vineyards stretching out toward the city of Épernay.
Alamy
Art Nouveau poster by Pierre Bonnard for Debray.
Today, there are around 5,000 different brands of Champagne supplied by more than 15,000 individual growers farming a total area of 30,000 hectares. This makes up the Champagne appellation, which on a good year can produce more than 350 million bottles.
As enshrined in EU law, only the sparkling wines produced from this pocket of land, which sits 145 kilometers northeast of Paris, can call themselves Champagne. It is a name worth protecting. The location of the region's vineyards produce wines with natural high acidity and intense concentration that are widely regarded as the best sparkling wines in the world.
Undoubtedly, the best way to explore this region is over a long weekend. Due to the nature of this largely agricultural area a car is essential but there are plenty of places to park up and explore the wonderful cellars, vineyards and historical culture of Champagne.
Hotel Royal ChampagneThe view from the Hotel Royal Champagne in Champillon
Day One
We start our tour by heading to its cultural, vinous and gastronomic capital: Reims, the city where 30 of France's kings were crowned and a host of Champagne houses have set up shop. These include, among many others, Charles Heidsieck, Henriot, Lanson, Louis Roederer, Krug, Mumm, Taittinger and Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin.
Much of what is marketed outside of France is centered on the Grandes Marques, around 20 big names with international distribution networks. Most of these producers have spectacular cellars, originally carved from the damp chalk bedrock by the Romans; these now make up a labyrinthine network below the streets of Épernay and Reims.
Many of these Grandes Marques are more than happy to receive visitors, open their cellars for tours and offer a glass of something fizzy afterward. A quick visit to the tourist office on 2, Rue Guillaume de Machault in Reims will provide a list of those open to the public. Pommery and Taittinger in Reims and Moët & Chandon in Épernay are all well worth a visit.
Art Deco Le Cafe du PalaisInside Le Café du Palais
But before venturing down the wine route, the high 13th-century Gothic cathedral that straddles the middle of the city, Notre-Dame de Reims, is worth a few hours exploration. Here, generations of French monarchs were crowned and served the local wine at their coronation. One highlight is a spectacular facade that includes a double arch of angels ascending into heaven over the door of the west end.
Leaving the cathedral, make your way to the atmospheric and family run art deco Le Café du Palais (14, Place Myron Herrick), where a range of Champagne by the glass is served. Historians in the group may visit the Musée de la Reddition (the Museum of Surrender, 12 rue Franklin Roosevelt) in the former headquarters of Allied commander General Eisenhower, where on May 7, 1945, at 2:41 a.m. the unconditional surrender of Germany was signed.
Reims is dotted with guesthouses and hotels, but for a stylish slice of luxury the Château les Crayères (64, Boulevard Henry Vasnier; www.lescrayeres.com) is worth splashing out for (from €395 for a double room per night). Set amid its own spacious grounds, it not only boasts one of the region's most comprehensive Champagne lists, with more than 400 different bottles to choose from, but also a two Michelin-star restaurant. The rooms are everything one would expect: oak-paneled with chandeliers and magical views over the Basilica of St. Rémi.
CorbisThe wine cellar at Moët & Chandon
Day Two
After a Champagne breakfast (for the nondriver) leave the city and drive south, taking the D9 or Route du Champagne, which is part of a triangle completed by the Châlons-sur-Marne on one side and Épernay on the other. Coming off the D9 onto the D26, you will pass through a carpet of vines and villages with names such as Verzenay, Verzy and Bouzy planted with mainly Pinot Noir. If decadent adventure is your thing, head to the forests on the edge of Verzy, where at the Perching Bar one can climb around eight meters above the ground to enjoy a crisp flute of Champagne in a sort of giant tree house, which is part of the Arboxygène adventure trail.
"On a beautiful day you feel as if you are in the trees" says Françoise Peretti, director of the Champagne Information Bureau. "It's a great idea. Sitting in the bar, you have this sense of being inside out."
Heading west through the wooded mountains of the Montagne de Reims, one dips down into the Marne Valley, with Épernay beyond. Aesthetically and architecturally, Épernay cannot compete with Reims but nevertheless it has its own charm and is a good place to hole up for a few days. There are more than 95 kilometers of chalk tunnels under its streets and no trip is complete without a stroll down the Avenue de Champagne, described by Winston Churchill as "the world's most drinkable address," and, in addition to Moët & Chandon, home to Perrier-Jouët and Pol Roger. Several of them open up their cellars for public tours, including Mercier, which guides visitors through its 18 kilometers of underground caverns on a laser-guided train.
Agence France-Presse\Getty ImagesDom Pérignon sculpted on the abbey in Hautvillers near Épernay
At the foot of the Avenue de Champagne on 11, rue Flodoard is one of the best value Champagne shops I have ever stepped foot in. Run by the formidable Jacqueline Salvatori, Ets Salvatori has a sensational collection of rare and old Champagne vintages at reasonable prices. These are all listed in a plastic leather folder in what Champagne lovers describe as "the book of dreams."
"It's a real little jewel," says Michael Edwards, author of "The Finest Wines of Champagne." "She has a wonderful collection of the grandest cuvées, stretching back decades, at very reasonable prices."
The shop is just a few minutes' walk from the Hôtel Jean Moët & Spa (7, rue Jean Moët Épernay, www.hoteljeanmoet.com, from €160 a room per night) a small, boutique hotel in an 18th-century building centered around an enclosed courtyard. It has 12 guest rooms and is well placed for a stroll to the nearby La Cave a Champagne (la-cave-a-champagne.com). This intimate restaurant serves local Champenois dishes and, as one would expect from the name, a fully comprehensive wine list. If you're struggling to find a familiar producer from the list, one tip is to pick a single-village or even single-vineyard wine. These can often reward the adventurous buyer with wines that possess a little more local personality than their better-known counterparts.
A map of the route
Day Three
For those wishing to escape the avenues of Épernay and Reims and soak up the atmosphere of the vines, the Hotel Royal Champagne on the road north of Épernay is a wonderful afternoon's excursion. A Relais & Château property (www.royalchampagne.com, from €280 for a double room per night) perched on top of an incline that overlooks the village of Champillon, it has 28 rooms with views overlooking the Marne Valley and a spectacular restaurant that from the inside feels it is hovering over the vines.
From here it is a short drive to the village of Hautvillers and the grave of Dom Pérignon, where the light is magical in the late afternoon sun.
For many, Champagne is more than urban life and history, it is countryside. Walking atop its brilliant white chalky soil amid France's most northerly vineyards is one of the country's many delights. It is also a perfect way to work up an appetite for an early evening glass of something sparkling.
Write to Will Lyons at william.lyons@wsj.com
Steve Pfost for The New York Times IT is 14 degrees above zero as a group of wine lovers converges in a vineyard on the Niagara Peninsula. Frosty bundles of Riesling grapes hang on rows of vines in the pale, gathering daylight. A storm the night before has left behind six inches of fresh snow.
Through gaps in the dense woods I caught flashes of golden wheat fields ready for harvest. Modern intrusions into this tableau were few: Mac, my partner, and I, zipping along a canal-side path on the bikes we'd rented in Paris, nearly 15 miles behind us, and the Yankees cap shading the face of a napping angler.
Note from the Editor: Freelance writer Kiyo Wiesnoski brings us this next post. Kiyo, originally from the Bay Area in California, currently lives in Henderson, Nevada. She is an avid swimmer and is constantly on the lookout for the best pools in Las Vegas.
Summer is just about over but before we bid summer adieu, here’s a look at some of the most sensational pools from around the world. You definitely won’t find these at your local rec center.
1. San Alfonso del Mar, Chile
This is the biggest pool in the world, spanning over half a mile in length. This massive pool holds 66,000,000 gallons of water and goes up to 11 feet deep. It runs along the beach of a private resort, mimicking the ocean across from it (you know, so you can swim at the beach without the fear of getting eaten by a shark).
2. Nemo 33, Belgiumphoto credit: StojadinovicP via photopin cc.
Nemo 33 is the deepest pool in the world, and has lots of replicas of underwater caves where scuba divers can explore. There are also glass windows in some parts, where you can impress onlookers. The pool is filled with 2,500,000 litres of filtered, non-chlorinated spring water. At its deepest, the pool reaches a depth of 33 meters (or 108 feet)!
photo credit: Eric Burgers via photopin cc 3. Joule Hotel Pool, Texas (U.S.)
Photo by Jeff Stvan.
This pool is on the 10th floor of the hotel, hanging out over the edge of the building to suspend swimmers above the city. A glass wall lets swimmers enjoy the view of the streets below.
4. Marina Bay Sands, SingaporePhoto by Daryl Chia.
The Marina Bay Sands is home to the world’s longest elevated swimming pool. The infinity edge pool rests on the rooftop of the building and really does give the illusion that there is no edge.
photo credit: davidwjford via photopin cc. 5. Seagaia Ocean Dome, Japan
When the weather is nice, the ceiling of this dome can be retracted to let the sun in, but on rainy or gloomy days, the ceiling simulates a blue sky.
Photo by Max Smith
These pools are definitely bucket list worthy, and provide a mini escape from the stress of the real world once in a while.
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Tagged: infinity pools, longest swimming pool, Travel Photos, world's most amazing swimming pools, worlds deepest swimming pool
Diwali celebrations around the world.
Diwali celebrations in India, Singapore, Trinidad and Tobago, Mauritius and Myanmar will take place this year on Tuesday 13 November.
Deepavali in Singapore from £425 per person
Singapore is a melting pot of cultures and Diwali, or Deepavali, is one of the festivals that unites the people of Singapore – with annual celebrations of elaborate light and candle decorations. Head to ‘Little India’ on Serangoon Road to truly enjoy the festive atmosphere; streets are lined with hundreds of fairy lights, garlands and colourful arches.
Children light sparklers and adults visit one of the 18 Hindu temples to offer prayers before everyone comes together for a family meal. Return flights from London to Singapore start from £425 per person.
Diwali in Mauritius from £639 per person
With a population including 63 per cent of Indian descent, of which 80 per cent follow Hinduism, Mauritius is known for holding Diwali celebrations almost as elaborate as in India. Oil lamps are placed in front of every home, turning the island into a fairyland of flickering lights. As well as celebrating the victory of good over evil and light over darkness, the little flickering lights also symbolise the beginning of summer.
The main day of the festivities is seen as a particularly auspicious day for merchants to make up their accounts and balances for the previous year, to go unburdened into the next. After the morning prayers, Hindus share sweets prepared specially for the occasion with family members, neighbours and friends. Return flights from London to Mauritius start from £639 per person.
Diwali in the Caribbean sun from £459 per person
Considered as the land of the Humming Bird, Trinidad and Tobago observes traditional Hindu festivals and customs with a Caribbean twist. Here, 43% of the 1.3 million population are ethnic Indians and Diwali is regarded as a national holiday and is observed by those of all denominations. The day is marked by prayers, Caribbean-Indian feasts and the lighting of thousands of diyas - small clay pots filled with oil and a wick which are lit all over the country.
Join thousands at sundown to light the diyas in villages all over the country. Return flights from London to Trinidad and Tobago start from £459 per person.
Traditional Diwali in South India from £426 per person
In the South, the Diwali preparations begin the day before, when families spring clean their homes ready for the next day. Rooms are scented with ginger, sandal paste and turmeric. Deepavali celebrations begin early in the morning when the eldest family member applies sesame oil on the heads of all the family members.
Children are treated to sparklers and new clothes before the family trip to the temple. Lights and lamps are lit at sundown ready for the evening feasts. Return flights from London to Cochin start from £426 per person.
Colourful celebrations in North India from £432 per person
In the North, Diwali festivities start with the lighting of homes, pathways, temples, and even government buildings, with hundreds of small clay lamps and candles. Firecrackers, thought to frighten away evil spirits are also used, which makes this a particular popular festival for children. On Diwali itself, shops remain open till the afternoon, believing that good sales on Diwali day predict a prosperous year ahead.
Around every street corner you’ll find temporary stages for holding the Ramlila - a dramatic rendition of the story of the Ramayan, which continues for several evenings. Return flights from London to Delhi start from £432 per person.
Watch traditional dancing in Myanmar from £586 per person
Diwali is celebrated according to the Hindu solar calendar. The five-day festival in Burma (Myanmar) is marked by fireworks, home decorations and sweets. New garments are worn and traditional dancing takes place to honour the occasion. Return flights to Yangon from London start from just £586 per person with Cheapflights.co.uk.
Are you celebrating the festival of lights abroad this year? Tell us all about it in the comments below or tweet us @FemaleFirst_UK
FemaleFirst
Shabana Adam
For several days each May, the Grand Prix races through the streets of Monaco.
Nice, France
Nice, France
Nice, France
Nice, France
Cannes, France
Villefranche-sur-Mer, France
Villefranche-sur-Mer, France
Monte Carlo, Monaco
Monte Carlo, Monaco
Monaco
STORY HIGHLIGHTS
- The South of France has something for everyone, from world-class art to celebrity allure
- Stroll along Nice's Promenade des Anglais to take in the stunning setting
- Stop in the casinos in neighboring Monaco to channel your inner James Bond
- Explore markets and sidewalk dining for fresh Mediterranean cuisine
(CNN) -- The French Riviera, that picture-perfect stretch of beach-hugging Mediterranean coastline, looks just like a fabled playground of the rich-and-famous would if an artist drew it. And many of the most renowned, from Claude Monet to Henri Matisse, certainly did.
August is when many French residents escape their cities, towns and villages and head out "on holiday," but weather-wise, it's a great time to visit the Riviera (or the Côte d'Azur, as the Riviera is called en français). But so is the fall, the spring -- even the so-called "off-season" after New Year's for those who prefer their crowds thin, traffic light and prices less steep.
Travel Snapshots: Share your photos from the South of France
Talk about an embarrassment of riches. From the Italianate pastel charms of Menton and Nice to the sexy, sybaritic lure of Cannes and St-Tropez, the sun-splashed South of France has it all. Here are 10 ways to savor it, no matter when you go.
1. Go strolling in style. Just like a supermodel blessed with natural beauty and great bones, the Riviera loves to show itself off. So take advantage with anytime strolls through these gorgeous seaside and hillside cities and towns. Nice's famed Promenade des Anglais -- a miles-long stretch alongside pebbly beaches and dominated by the Belle Epoque-era landmark hotel Le Negresco -- is one rewarding route; the jaw-dropping allure of the walk between Côte d'Azur villages Villefranche-sur-Mer and next-door Beaulieu-sur-Mer is another.
2. Party like a rock star. The Côte d'Azur is a perennial playground for A-list celebrities such as Rihanna (who in late July hit the streets of St-Tropez in a bandeau bikini top and crochet skirt), Academy Award-winning actor Adrien Brody, Kanye West and Kim Kardashian.
Canne's annual film festival draws international celebrities such as Salma Hayek.
But you too can roll like the jet set. Do it in Cannes (May's annual film festival, anyone?) at Le Baoli nightclub where Leonardo DiCaprio and Cameron Diaz have dropped in. Or at St-Tropez's eternally hot and long-queued club Les Caves du Roy, where stars such as P. Diddy, George Clooney and David and Victoria Beckham get the royal treatment -- and guests staying onsite at the five-star Hotel Byblos get to skip the lines.
3. Get lucky. Unlike the giant casinos in Las Vegas, where gamblers amble in wearing shorts and flip-flops, the grand ones in Monaco are more refined. Even though men are "required" only to wear long pants and closed-toe shoes at the Casino de Monte-Carlo, they can channel their inner James Bond and don jackets at night in the Salons Privés, where roulette, blackjack and other games are played.
Cannes' massive Casino Croisette is one of several, including Nice's glitzy Casino Ruhl, owned by the 100-year-old Lucien Barrière group, which helped launch the modern-day resort concept by combining casinos, luxury hotels and sports facilities on the same site. Both Ruhl and the casino inside the Art Deco-inspired Palais de la Méditerranée have fabulous addresses, facing the sea and the Promenade des Anglais.
4. Soak up the scents. The South of France is home to some amazing smells, thanks to the way-high hillside towns of Grasse and Eze, which send fragrances to the world and explain perfume production to the masses. Grasse, about 26 miles west of Nice, is home to legends Fragonard, whose 18th century factory is still open to the public; Molinard, which also operates a friendly and well-stocked store in central Nice; and Galimard, another 18th century gem that offers free guided tours of its factory and museum 365 days a year (and does the same in picturesque Eze Village).
5. Take an artistic approach. Great painters were obviously onto something when they settled along the Côte d'Azur, inspired by its dazzling blue waters and skies and villages high in the sky. Those who called this stretch home and created world-class works that fill modern-day museums along the French Riviera include Pablo Picasso, whose former château-turned-museum in Antibes houses hundreds of his paintings, ceramics and more.
In Nice, there's Musée Matisse, perched on a hill in the tony Cimiez neighborhood and housing a collection the artist and his heirs left to the city. Musée National Marc Chagall features the 19th century artist's biblical-themed works. In Saint-Paul-de-Vence, you'll find Fondation Maeght, a modern art museum that pays homage to Chagall, Joan Miró and Alberto Giacometti.
6. Take in the scene. There's never a dull moment on the Côte d'Azur with year-round festivals keeping tourists and locals well entertained. Of course, there's the Nice Jazz Festival with international A-list headliners each July (and with many performances staged in an ancient Roman amphitheater in Cimiez). The top-flight and Jazz à Juan festival follows just days later in lively and watersports-friendly Juan-les-Pins.
Cannes lights up the sky each summer with the annual International Fireworks Festival, which started last month and continues August 7, 15 and 24. Also catch the Monte-Carlo International Fireworks Festival each July and August, with its competition happening August 8 and 25. If you feel a need for speed, the Grand Prix of Monaco races through this tiny principality's streets for several days each May.
Heavenly Hawaii: Do's and don'ts
7. Dine like the locals. Cuisine in the South of France takes advantage of the Provençal region's rich natural bounty. You'll find colorful ratatouille, a side dish made from tomatoes, eggplant, onions, peppers and zucchini; bouillabaisse, the famed seafood soup from the port city of Marseille served with a creamy garlic sauce; and socca, a chickpea-and-olive oil pancake sold by vendors in Nice and beyond.
On a narrow street in Vieux Nice stands Oliviera, a tiny restaurant where owner Nadim Beyrouti's seasonal cuisine showcases the Provençal olive oils he sells.
And because Nice belonged to Italy until 1860, Italian cuisine feels about as local as salad Niçoise. You'll dine fabulously across the Côte d'Azur, but tiny Oliviera in Vieux (Old) Nice does more than serve delicious dishes. Multilingual owner Nadim Beyrouti uses his seasonal cuisine as a showcase for the small-producer Provençal olive oils he sells. You'll want to take home bottles of this liquid gold to use back home -- and give as gifts.
8. Savor sundown. The French Riviera may be all about sun-splashed days, but the good times keep rolling at night. The mild climate lets folks dine and sip aperitifs outdoors most of the year, with terrace tables at cafes and restaurants such as Villefranche's always-popular Le Cosmo and those along the town quai occupied even in cooler months.
And from late June through early September, take in a current (usually English-language) film once the sun sets at the Monaco Open Air Cinema. Talk about a stunning backdrop to the action -- the cinema's perched on the Rock of Monaco, overlooking the sea and with spectacular views of the Prince's Palace and Old Town. Even Hollywood couldn't stage a scene like this.
9. Sleep well. Choices abound when cooling your heels after long days and nights on the Riviera. High rollers choose the celeb-favored Hôtel du Cap-Eden Roc at the southern tip of Cap d'Antibes or the InterContinental Carlton Cannes on the La Croisette waterfront promenade.
If you're looking for stunning sea views, balconies and a more laid-back artistic vibe, the 35-room Hotel Welcome in Villefranche-sur-Mer is a great bet. (Writer/artist/filmmaker Jean Cocteau used to stay here, and painted the interior of the 14th century Chapelle St-Pierre across the street.) Get more space by renting one of seven stylishly furnished flats (three on the Villefranche waterfront, most of the others in the colorfully charming Old Town) from Riviera Experience, which offers personalized service and every home comfort you might need.
10. Get around in style. No matter how you arrive or depart the Côte d'Azur, you'll be treated to world-class views. Take the high-speed TGV to or from Paris or regional trains from nearby Ventimiglia, Italy, and gaze at mile after gorgeous mile of Mediterranean beaches. Fly into or out of Nice -- one of France's three busiest airports -- and drool at the scenery you'll see from the air.
Since the Riviera is home to the annual Grand Prix, consider checking out the landscape on your own wheels, zipping along the three corniches, or winding roads that stretch between Nice and Menton. Regional buses also travel many of these stunning roads. And if you're partial to the sea, use seasonal April-October ferries between Nice and Monaco, Cannes and St-Tropez for breathtaking sights you won't soon forget.
Have you been to the French Riviera or other areas in southern France? Share your photos and recommendations with iReport.
By Kim Fay, author of The Map of Lost Memories
My fascination with Shanghai began when I was a girl and my grandpa would show me photographs from his time there as a sailor in the early 1930s. Years later, when I began writing The Map of Lost Memories, which takes place in 1925, I knew in my heart that the novel must open in the former Paris of the East.
As a result of the First Opium War, Shanghai was forced to open its port to foreign trade in 1842, and in the years following WWII, it was a cosmopolitan city with distinct British, French, American, and Japanese communities, as well as a growing population of White Russians fleeing the Bolsheviks. A passport was not required for entry, industry flourished on a sturdy platform of rampant corruption, and multicultural influences abounded, all of which contributed to the city's mass of contradictions and reputation as a lawless, decadent place.
Today, after four decades of staunch Communism and a few more spent gearing up for its comeback, Shanghai is once again an international hub. And while it boasts a skyline that can compete with the best of its 21st-century brethren, it has maintained more than a few traces of its past.
The Bund
When my main character, Irene, arrived in Shanghai, her first sight would have been of The Bund, a stretch of waterfront along the Huangpu River. Although surrounded by evidence of Shanghai's progress, the architecture here has been left, for the most part, untouched. Strolling the promenade, you can see landmarks like the former Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (built in 1923) and the Shanghai Club Building (dating to 1910, and now part of the Waldorf Astoria hotel). The restoration of design details makes it worthwhile to explore the buildings that are open to the public, but I also think that if you want to get a real feel for the past, you should make your way to The Bund at dawn. Standing on the promenade, turn your back on the river, and with the Pudong business district behind you, gaze out at Old Shanghai.
Huxinting Teahouse
When I first traveled to Shanghai in 1999 to research my novel, I sought out the area known in the 1920s as the "Chinese city." While there I came across this historic teahouse, which offers a lovely example of traditional Chinese architecture. It sits on stilts in the middle of a small lake between the ancient Yu Garden and Yuyuan Bazaar, the latter a perfect place to hunt for vintage advertising posters and other treasures. Stepping inside the teahouse feels like entering a time travel machine. Wait for a table by the window (evenings are less crowded) and linger over your tea.
Museum of the First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party
In 1921 the First National Congress declared the founding of China's Communist party, which plays a crucial role in the opening chapters of my novel. The site of this congress is now a museum where visitors can learn about the history of Chinese Communism, as well as view a wax diorama of the secret meeting's attendees, including a young Mao Zedong. Ironically, the development of the surrounding area has put the museum on the edge of Xintiandi, a capitalist enclave of restaurants, boutiques, and bars. Although this complex is new, it will appeal to history buffs, consisting as it does of restored Shikumen buildings, the typical Shanghai lane houses from days of yore.
The Jazz Bar
When it comes to hotspots, Shanghai won't disappoint. Visitors can find numerous listings of bars and nightclubs in local newspapers and magazines. Among the venues, The Jazz Bar is not the trendiest. But it is the place to go if you want to sip in a truly historic setting. It is located on The Bund in the Fairmont Peace Hotel (once the Cathay Hotel, dating back to 1929). Veteran musicians and up-and-comers play in a beautifully restored setting of pillars and dark wood. The drinks from the retro cocktail list may be a bit overpriced (this is a hotel bar, after all), but the overall experience is worth it.
Astor House Hotel
If you're looking for immaculately renovated historic ambience, the Waldorf Astoria is a better choice. But if you want a taste of the past that hasn't been appropriated by designers reinterpreting history, a stay here is essential. Established in 1846, this beautiful Baroque property thrived in the 1920s and is said to have hosted luminaries such as Charlie Chaplin and Albert Einstein. Rooms range from petite to cavernous, and décor is simple but comfy. The real appeal here is overall heritage atmosphere at a nice price. And a location on the north end of The Bund makes the Astor House a perfect base for your early morning stroll.
Born in Seattle and raised throughout the Pacific Northwest, Kim Fay lived in Vietnam for four years and still travels to Southeast Asia frequently. A former bookseller, she is the author of Communion: A Culinary Journey Through Vietnam, winner of the World Gourmand Cookbook Awards' Best Asian Cuisine Book in the United States. She is also the creator/editor of a series of guidebooks on Southeast Asia. Fay now lives in Los Angeles. Her first novel, The Map of Lost Memories, is out now.
Photo Credits:The Bund: Shanghai bund night via Shutterstock.com ;Huxinting Teahouse: Jiawangkun | Dreamstime.com ;Museum of the First Congress of the Chinese Communist Party: Shanghai, Xin Tian Di - 2004 by Brian Harrington SpierAttribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike License ;The Jazz Bar: Fairmont Hotels & Resorts; Astor House Hotel: Jiawangkun | Dreamstime.com
FIRST, the bad news: Dubrovnik is no longer anyone's best-kept secret. Some 17 years after the end of Croatia's war of independence, the city's medieval walled Old Town is gridlocked with tourists during the summer. Yet go in the fall and you'll quickly see what the fuss is about.
Laurie R. King, author of Garment of Shadows
Shopping in a souk can be a mystery. The guidebooks command you to bargain—but how, without either feeling like an idiot or an Ugly American? Here's some tips.
1. Bargaining is a game, with rules. The goal isn't to win and leave your opponent bleeding; it's to tie, leaving both sides content.
2. Bargaining is also a relationship. Greet the seller—and let him know if you're only browsing. If you're interested in buying, respond to his opening bid not with outrage, but polite disbelief (then cut it in half.) Mention flaws with apparent reluctance, and blame any drawbacks on yourself: Well, this isn't quite what I was looking for... I wish I had that much to spend...
3. Do your homework. Know what's there before you go, and roughly what it should cost. If you know trusted locals—not your guide, your waiter, or the hotel manager—ask what they might expect to pay. And watch how much other souk shoppers hand over.
4. Don't be in a hurry. This is a relationship, remember? Ask questions, make a joke, establish that you're fellow travelers on the planet. And unless what you're seeing really is one-of-a-kind, taking your time allows you to compare quality and prices. When it comes to bargaining, the signals given off by a customer in a hurry send the price skyrocketing.
5. Always assume the shopkeeper is proud of the goods. Open admiration and those jokes and questions are more productive than pretending nonchalance, or even disdain. Beside, you won't fool a savvy salesman.
6. Be willing to walk away. Honestly willing. If you haggle for a while and begin to feel pushed, you may be in the hands of a rogue hawking inferior goods. Or it could be you don't understand what the piece is worth, and you're risking an insult. A wistful farewell to the object of your desire gets the message across—if you then walk off. (Slowly, in case he wants to counter-offer.) See also #4 above: waiting a day to return establishes both your interest, and your iron nerve.
7. More tourists mean higher prices. On the other hand, tourists also mean more shopkeepers who accept plastic, and who can be relied upon to ship something—a consideration if you don't want to be wrestling that carpet into a plane's overhead bin.
8. A disapproving and/or impatient partner, particularly one who clearly holds the purse strings, can be a valuable tool for the game: good buyer, bad buyer.
9. Don't feel guilty over the amount of their tea you've drunk or the mountain of goods pulled down for you. You owe the shop nothing but thanks.
10. And if you buy something you love and later find it for sale down the street for less, so what? You have it, you love it, you won it in the souk: the price is a minor surcharge for the privilege of travel. There's no mystery in that.
Laurie R. King is the New York Times bestselling author of ten Mary Russell mysteries, five contemporary novels featuring Kate Martinelli, and the acclaimed novels A Darker Place, Folly, Keeping Watch, and Touchstone. She lives in Northern California where she is recently wrote her latest novel Garment of Shadows, which is out now.
Photos courtesy of Laurie R. King
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