Gateway to Izmir 

The man@Seat 23 (Andrew Barrow)

Deciding to travel by train from Istanbul to Izmir was a brave and possibly foolhardy decision, especially as their is no direct rail service. Instead you have to catch the ferry across to Bandirma and then pick up the train from the station that adjoins the ferry port. Still it seemed more attractive and adventurous than taking the plane and we would see more of the countryside.

The ferry for Bandirma leaves at 7.00, the three of us (CRM, Andrew Barrow and myself) met in the lobby of the Armada hotel just after 6am - the fourth early start of the week - ready to take a taxi for the short ride to the ferry terminal.

All went smoothly until we reached the terminal only to discover that today the Bandirma ferry was cancelled. Unfortunately the ferry to Bandirma does not run when the weather is rough - it had certainly been very wild late yesterday evening with torrential rain.

What to do? We were rather committed to the train, having already bought tickets on line - not that they were expensive: only 22 Turkish lira each. More important taking the plane instead would be expensive. Fortunately there was ferry for Bursa leaving at 7.30. This is a much larger ferry so able to travel in rough conditions.

We were advised that we could get a coach from Bursa to Bandirma or alternatively one from there direct to Izmir. The port of Bursa (Mudanya) is about 15K from the main town, so we would probably have to get into town and from there to Bandirma. A taxi all the way to Bandirma soon looked to be the best option, then we would be sure that we could catch our 13.30 train.

We quickly negotiated a ride to Bandirma for 250 lira - not too bad shared between the three of us for a ride that would take us around an hour and a half. We were in Bandirma before 11.30. Our driver was entertaining - delighted that we were from the UK and not French, as he clearly had not appreciated Sarkozy's negative attitude to Turkey's application to join the European Union.

You would be hard pushed to get on the wrong train at Bandirma Gar as there are only four a day: two that leave for Izmir and two that arrive.

Initially we thought the train might be empty but we were way ahead of time - a good number turned up with around 30 minutes to go. It filled up as we slowly made our way southwards. The train stopped fairly frequently - mainly at stations but also to let trains pass in the other direction as this is largely a single track line. Turkish Railways seem to be adding an extra line over some of the route, so the train has to crawl through these sections. Not that it ever goes very quickly, so makes for a leisurely trip to Izmir leaving Bandirma at 13.30 and not due to reach Izmir until 19.48.

Initially we passed through flat, open land. As we moved further south this became more rugged like the limestone causse of South West France making it a pretty ride with the autumn colours despite the greyness of the day. We passed by many olive groves - in some parts olives are likely to be one of the few things that will grow in a thin soiled limestone land.

As we suspected our train was well late – eventually arriving in Izmir at 20.48 – an hour late. However, it was an adventure and we did see some more of the countryside. 

 Bandirma Gar: 1960s new brutalism courtesy of British Rail

The Izmir Flyer awaits@Bandirma

 The café@Bandirma station

The long wait

Engine detail

 Alder Yarrow contemplating the sunset and the possible result of the US election (6th November)

Pre-conference trip: dateline 7th November 2012

With Americans making up a significant proportion of the bloggers on the pre-conference trip to Thrace it was good that Barack Obama was re-elected President early this morning. Had Milt Romney managed to win, our coach would have been a pretty miserable place today!

Re-electing Obama, a black man, may be just as significant as electing him as president in 2008 in the first place.

 Bloggers admiring an bottling line at speed – Suvla Winery

 Brett Jones@Gali

Luiz Alberto – don't mess with me!

 Jonathan Hesford – vigneron in the Roussillon

 Luiz Alberto: a trio of pics

 Per Karlsson

 Ryan O'Connell@strategic planning 

Impressive shop at Suvla Winery

Jim has described below our interesting, though lengthy, journey to Izmir. Particular highlights were:

1. the people: fascinating to see the ever-changing melting pot of people joining and leaving the train - young and old, traditional and modern attire, the railway personnel - but most of all to experience the friendliness and helpfulness of everyone we rubbed shoulders with, including our charming taxi driver, Sedat, who gave us his personal number just in case we ever go back to Bursa
2. the landscape: the mix of rural and industrial, the changing architecture, the stations, some in large towns, some in small farming villages
3. being immersed in the language - very few spoke English so we had to grapple with greeting people, understanding placenames, making sense of the announcements in the train, ordering food and drink, ...

 The empty terminus at Bandirma

An hour before departure - the empty waiting room

... just the bloggers' luggage

Our train awaits - the '6 Eylül Express'

The firmly closed ferry port

The ferry boat - no sprinting today!

One of the many stations we stopped at along the route. The railway is a good employer - here there were three officials and a guard  

 2011 Pinot Noir, Chamlija with design by Irem Chamlija

The #EWBC 2012 Welcome Dinner

This was held at Frankie's fashionable rooftop restaurant with some spectacular views over Istanbul. The survivors from the Pre-Conference Trip to Thrace were joined by a number of reinforcements including André Ribeirinho, Tim Lemke and Robyn Bancroft and our putative train companion - Andrew Barrow - see separate post on our adventurous journey to Izmir. 

Frankie is undoubtedly a buzzy and lively restaurant. The food was good, although perhaps we had one course too many.

We started with a glass of fizz - the Kayra/Cameo Doro, which appears to have quite a high dosage but it was good to have a fizz to celebrate Obama's re-election. The Cameo is a blend of Bornova Misketi, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Amuse bouche

Chardonnay vine leaves soup, rice dolma, yoghurt mousse

Served With

Chamlija Viognier 2011 from Strandja, Thrace.

Attractive Viognier, which although quite high in alc it does not show. Carole found this a little overoaked. 50% went into oak, 50% stainless. Chamlija is a new project with 90 hectares planted with a current production of just 18,000 bottles but that will increase very significantly once the 90 hectares are in full production.

Chamlija has wonderful labels designed by Irem Camlica, the daughter of Mustafa the owner of Chamlija. Mustafa has promised to launch a range of shirts based her marvellous designs. I have already placed a provisional order.

Cheese soufflé 

'Kes' (cd) Cheese soufflé, prosciutto, mixed greens, fig balsamic sauce

Served with

Kayra/Terra Kalecik Karasi Rose 2011. From Denizili, Aegean.

Easy drinking rosé with some freshness in finish.

2011 Kalecik Karasi Roze

Homemade cannelloni, spinach, mushrooms, cheese

Served with:
Vinkara/Mahzen Narince 2010

Quite rich and full some apricot - a little reminiscent of Viognier. Good freshness in the finish. From what little I have tasted Narince seems to be an interesting grape variety.   

2011 Pinot Noir, Chamlija

Duck breast, crispy 'yufka', pumpkin and ginger mille-feuilles, pear-orange sauce

Served with:

Chamlija/Pinot Noir 2011

Pleasant, mid weight but not typical Pinot Noir, lacks some zip in finish.

2010 Vinkara/Mahzen Kalecik Karasi 2010

Vinkara/Mahzen Kalecik Karasi 2010

Black fruits and spice, some concentration, well rounded tannins, well balanced. Has ageing potential?

The evening was rounded off by a taxi ride back to the Armada Hotel through streets awash with water from the very heavy storm. The return of Noah perhaps?

2010 Vinkara/Mahzen Kalecik Karasi 2010