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Fruit trees are a wonderful way to enhance the beauty and value of your landscape. They provide nutritious food to eat and share with friends, neighbors, and wildlife; they provide shade, and are aesthetically pleasing. More...

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Overview of the types of fruits and conditions you might consider when growing fruit in your yard.  The following is an excerpt from a longer 30 minute production entitled "Fruits in the Florida Landscape."

Here is a brief overview of the types of fruits and conditions you might consider when growing fruit in your yard.  The above is an excerpt from a longer 30 minute production entitled "Fruits in the Florida Landscape."

You can grow many types of fruit in your own yard! Watch this video to learn how to plant a fruit tree.
See the Video...

Certain types of fruit grow better in different areas of the state.  If you're unsure about the fruit you'd like to grow in your area, view the plant hardiness zone map or better yet, consult with your local Extension office.

 

Low Chill Apple Cultivars for North Florida and North Central Florida1

Peter C. Andersen and Timothy E. Crocker2

Introduction

Relatively few cultivars of apples (Malus domestica L.) can be grown successfully in Florida. Northern apple cultivars -- such as 'Golden Delicious', 'Red Delicious', 'Gala', 'Fuji', or 'McIntosh' -- are not exposed to enough low temperatures during Florida's mild winters. Consequently, both vegetative and reproductive spring growth are suppressed when these cultivars are grown in Florida.

Whether a region's climate is compatible with a cultivar's chilling requirement may be determined on the basis of the cumulative number of hours less than or equal to 45° F during the winter, or may be determined by the mean annual temperature of the coldest month. Although few apple cultivars with a low chilling requirement can be successfully grown in Florida, many homeowners in north Florida and north central Florida grow apple trees.

There is little potential for establishment of commercial apple orchards in Florida because apples are available year-round from the Pacific Northwest, and apples are also available from south of the equator during the winter and spring. Additionally, the successful culture of apples in Florida is more difficult than in most temperate regions due to high rainfall and humidity in Florida during the apple-ripening season, late May through June. The Florida climate also contributes to enhanced insect and disease pressures on apples.

Site Requirements

Apple trees perform best in locations that receive full sun. Areas that receive shade more than half of the day are not suitable for growing apples. Additionally, early morning sun is more important than early evening sun due to the negative impact of morning dew on leaves and fruit. Locations and cultural practices that foster air movement should be encouraged to minimize disease problems associated with high humidity. Planting on hill tops is preferable to low-lying areas because hill tops facilitate good air circulation and drainage of surface water.

Apple trees grow well in most soils in north Florida and north central Florida, provided that the areas are well drained. A soil pH of 6 - 6.5 is best for growing apples. For a soil pH of less than 5.0, add 4 - 6 lb/100 sq. ft. of lime prior to planting. Few soils in north Florida have a native pH greater than 7.0. However, application of elemental sulfur of 1 lb/100 sq. ft. will lower pH about 1 unit. In poorly drained soils or soils in low-lying areas, apple trees will succumb to anaerobiosis and/or Phythophora root rot. In extremely sandy soils, apple trees will have to be supplied with irrigation more frequently, especially for young trees during the dry, spring season in Florida, when apples are in a growth period.

Apple Cultivars

Apple cultivars that may be suitable for north Florida and north central Florida have a chilling requirement of less than 600 and 400 hours, respectively. A summary of apple cultivars evaluated in Florida is presented in Table 1.

Of the 43 cultivars tested, only 'Anna', 'Dorsett Golden' and 'TropicSweet' are recommended for Florida. 'Anna' and 'Dorsett Golden' originated in Israel and the Bahamas, respectively. 'TropicSweet' is a relatively new, patented cultivar from the University of Florida (UF) breeding program. These cultivars each have a chilling requirement of 250 - 300 hours. Additionally, these cultivars require accumulation of a substantial amount of heat units, before trees will bloom. As a result, these cultivars can be grown in Ocala and northward in Florida.

While frost injury to flower buds is common on most low-chill apple cultivars, such cultivars also exhibit a prolonged bloom period in late winter (usually late February), so that the later blooms often escape injury.

Most apple cultivars are not self-fruitful; more than one cultivar should be planted together for cross pollination. 'Anna', 'Dorsett Golden' and 'TropicSweet' all serve as pollinizers to each other. Fruit ripens on these three varieties from late May through June. Full bloom and fruit ripening are generally two to three weeks earlier in north central Florida than in north Florida. All three cultivars have good keeping quality and will last from six to eight weeks with refrigeration. Fruit characteristics of these cultivars are listed in Table 2.

Fruit of 'Anna' resembles that of 'Red Delicious' more than other low-chill apple cultivars. Fruit of 'Anna' typically attains a size of 2 1/4 - 2 ½ inches with a 50 percent red blush and good flavor. These trees are upright to semi-spreading and medium in height. 'Anna' is the most widely planted apple cultivar in Florida. 'Dorsett Golden' fruit has good flavor, golden skin, and resembles 'Golden Delicious' fruit. Fruit of 'Dorsett Golden' are 2 - 2 ½ inches, slightly smaller and also firmer than fruit of 'Anna'. 'Dorsett Golden' fruit have a 30 percent light-red blush that covers a yellow ground color. Trees are medium in height, upright and semi-spreading. 'TropicSweet' fruit are sweeter (14 - 15° Brix) and firmer than fruit of 'Anna', but are less red and less acidic. 'TropicSweet' fruit have a 30 percent red blush and are subject to skin russetting in some years. 'TropicSweet' trees are semi-spreading and medium height.

A second tier of apple cultivars conditionally recommended for Florida includes 'Ein Shemer',

'Elah', 'Maayan', 'Michal' and Shlomit. These cultivars, all from Israel, ripen later in the summer, when rainfall-induced insect and disease pressures are very high in Florida. Fruit characteristics of these cultivars, only conditionally recommended for Florida, are also presented in Table 2.

Rootstock

A problem apple growers frequently encounter worldwide is that trees become overly vigorous, very large when planted on seedling rootstocks. However, 'Anna', 'Dorsett Golden' and 'TropicSweet' are spur type trees and, as a result, do not produce large trees on seedling rootstock. Use of a dwarfing rootstock for dooryard planting of these cultivars may further reduce tree size. Additionally, many apple rootstocks have been developed that reduce vegetative growth of scions, compared to the vegetative growth that results from seedling rootstocks.

A rootstock trial was initiated during January 1988 at the UF North Florida Research and Education Center (NFREC) in Monticello, Fla. Apple rootstocks included in the trial were the following: Mark, M7A, P22, MM106. Seedling rootstocks were initially included in the experiment, but were deleted from the study because the scion cultivars were not true to type from the nursery. A summary of rootstock characteristics appears in Table 4.

'Anna' or 'Dorsett Golden' were grafted onto each rootstock. The experiment was designed and analyzed as a 2 x 4 factorial design. Each rootstock/scion was replicated five times. Trees were trained to a modified central leader system. In October 1990 trunk diameter at a height of 2 feet above the ground and also tree height were measured.

Trees on M7A or MM106 were subjectively rated as acceptable. However, trees on Mark or P22 were unacceptable because of inadequate vigor and poor health.

Because trees are pruned yearly, tree size is not as accurate an indicator of relative vigor as is trunk diameter. However, this trial indicated that trunk diameter and tree height were both significantly affected by rootstock, and these variables were not affected by scion (Table 3). Trunk diameter and tree size were greater for trees on M7A or MM106 than for trees on either Mark or P22. For example, mean trunk diameters of M7A or MM106 varied between 2.0 - 2.2 inches. By contrast, trunk diameter of Mark or P22 varied between 0.7 - 1.5 inches.

Burr knots (a swollen mass of gall-like tissue just above the graft union) were also especially prominent on Mark or P22 rootstocks. This physiological disorder results from incompatibility of the scion and rootstock and sometimes causes adventitious root formation.

Planting

Healthy, bare-root trees that are 1- to 2-years-old and obtained from a nursery should be planted without allowing the roots to dry. Apple trees may be planted any time during the dormant season, January to March. However, planting apples trees in Florida from late December to February will allow sufficient time for roots to become established before spring growth begins. When transplanting container-grown trees, care should be taken to spread the roots. Trees purchased in containers can be planted throughout the year provided adequate water is applied, including throughout the dry spring months and other dry periods and especially during the establishment year. Planting holes should be large enough to ensure that the root system is neither crowded nor bent. Extra long or broken roots should be placed in an upright position in the hole and planted at approximately the same depth as in the nursery. Put a small amount of soil into the hole, pack the soil around the roots, and repeat this procedure until the hole is full of soil and the plant is firmly in place. After planting, make a soil ring around the edges of the hole to form a reservoir for water. This reservoir then should be completely filled with water to settle the soil around the roots. Do not fertilize at planting, and never put fertilizer in the planting hole.

Cultivation

Cultivation is usually necessary only for weed control and should be as shallow as possible to avoid damage to the root system. An area approximately 4 - 6 feet from the trunk should be maintained weed-free. Chemical weed killers with low human/animal toxicity are usually practical for home use. When using pesticides, always follow label directions. Prior to application of herbicides, all suckers emanating from the rootstock or lower trunk should be removed. Mulches may be used to control weeds and conserve moisture, but do not allow the mulch to be in contact with the tree trunk.

Fertilization

Optimum fertilizer application rates for apple trees are largely unknown for Florida conditions. A balanced fertilizer -- such as 10-10-10 with micro-nutrients -- is recommended. About one pound of this mixture for each year of the tree's age can be applied annually up to a maximum of 15 pounds per year. In each of two fertilizer applications yearly, apply half of the total annual amount of fertilizer. The first application should be made during the dormant period, in January to March. Another application should be made at the beginning of the rainy season, in June. Broadcast the fertilizer evenly beneath the tree canopy.

Zinc deficiency is common in apples grown in Florida. One pound of zinc oxide (ZnO) or zinc sulfate (ZnSO4) should be applied annually if symptoms of zinc deficiency appear. Boron, another important micronutrient, is critical to apple fruit set, retention and firmness. Boron deficiency can also cause bitter pits and internal breakdown of apples.

Irrigation

Amount and timing of irrigation depends not only on amount and frequency of rainfall, but also on soil type. For young trees as little as 5-10 gallons of water per tree is satisfactory while old trees could require over 50 gallons of water. For trees grown in sandy soil, more frequent irrigations are required than for trees grown in clay soils. During each irrigation, the area beneath the canopy of the tree should be wet to a depth of 2 feet. For large trees this degree of saturation may require more than 50 gallons of water per tree per irrigation, or could require as little as 5 - 10 gallons per tree for young trees. Under extremely dry conditions, irrigation may be required daily for newly planted trees. For established trees weekly or bi-weekly irrigation is usually satisfactory.

Training and Pruning

Train and prune apples trees during the dormant season, January to March. Young apple tree should be trained to a modified central leader system. On 2-year-old trees, five or six strong scaffold limbs should be selected to develop a strong framework. These limbs should have wide angles, almost perpendicular to the trunk of the tree, and should be radically spaced around the tree trunk and vertically spaced approximately 6 - 8 inches from each other, up or down the trunk. If branch angles are too narrow (i.e. less than 60 degrees), a bark inclusion can occur, and the scaffold limb may split where it joins the central leader. When limbs are still young and herbaceous, clothes pins or tree spreaders can be used to increase branch angles. Later pruning of the tree will be for the purpose of removing diseased or dead wood, and to trim the tree to the desired shape. Be sure to remove tightly packed limbs and shoots to facilitate air movement throughout the tree canopy.

Harvesting and Storage

Apples ripen satisfactorily on the tree. The fruit should be picked when it has reached optimum size and color. Most slightly immature fruit will also ripen with satisfactory quality in a refrigerator. If fruit diseases increase with summer rainfall, it may be advisable to harvest the fruit slightly before optimum harvest maturity. 'Ein Shemer' fruit becomes mealy if overripe and does not store more than two weeks, even under refrigeration. However, fruit of 'Anna', 'Dorsett Golden', and 'TropicSweet' have been stored satisfactorily in refrigeration for six to eight weeks.

Pest Control

Prevention and control of pests -- including weeds, diseases and insects and more -- is necessary to maintain healthy trees that produce good quality fruit. Contact your county Cooperative Extension Service office for current recommendations. Some of the most common pests are discussed below.

Diseases

You may also want to consult EDIS Publication PDMG-V3-05, 2007 Florida Plant Disease Management Guide: Apple (Malus sylvestris), http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PG004 (Momol et al. 2007).

Apple Scab. This fungus, caused by Venturia ineaqualis, affects leaves, flowers and fruit. Lesions develop on both leaf surfaces, causing leaf distortion. Scabby, dark spots are clearly seen on infested fruit. In regions having a warm climate, these spots commonly appear as russeted scars as the fruit matures. Previous infection of immature fruit results in cracking and distortion of the area associated with the scab lesions. Efficient control of apple scab may be achieved by fungicide applications.

Fireblight. This bacterial disease, induced by Erwinia amylovora, spreads from tree to tree primarily during bloom. Fireblight is normally only a severe problem during a prolonged cool period in the spring. Typically, shoot tips become blackened and appear as if they have been burned. Fireblight can generally be controlled by reducing nitrogen fertilizer, which results in over-vigorous growth.

When fireblight infection is present, the infected area should be pruned out, cutting at least 8 - 10 inches below the lowest visible site of infection. The pruned-off limbs then should be burned.

Botryosphaeria canker. This fungal disease, also known as white rot, is caused by Botryosphaeria dothidea and is by far the most debilitating disease of apple trees in Florida. Twig cankers first appear as water-soaked spots, which eventually enlarge and produce rings of black fruiting structures. This canker can spread from twigs to scaffold limbs and eventually to the trunk, causing bark to darken and eventually to slough off. The fungus is spread as spores, particularly during wet and humid weather. B. dothidea is especially severe from June through August. Fruit infection can also occur and appear as small circular brown spots with red borders. Control is by pruning and removal of infected wood. Pruning cuts should be made beyond the area of visible infection into healthy tissue.

Bitter Rot. This fungal disease, incited by Colletotrichum gloeosporioides, infects the fruit, but causes stem cankers. Bitter rot on the fruit starts as a small, circular, light-brown area. Spots enlarge rapidly and become darkened. A distinctive characteristic is a saucer-shaped depression with fruiting structures in center and concentric rings to the periphery. Stem cankers should be pruned out and burned.

Mushroom Root Rot: This fungal disease -- incited by, Armillaria tabescens -- attacks the roots and can result in tree death. The disease is especially problematic in recently cleared land that contains residual tree roots. These roots can serve as a source of inoculum. In diseased trees, foliage turns yellow and then brown. Underneath the bark of the trunk at the soil line, inspect for white layers of fungus. Mushrooms, like fruiting bodies, may emerge from the lower trunk or from roots located close to the surface.

No satisfactory chemical control is available.

Insects

Scale Insects. Several scale insects -- primarily San Jose Scale (Quadraspidiotus perniciosus) -- may infest leaves, twigs, branches or fruit. Scale is usually controlled by a 2-3 percent dormant oil application.

Plum Curculio. The plum curculio (Conotrachelus nenuphar) is a common pest of stone fruit and apple. The female plum curculio makes a small, crescent-shaped cut in the immature fruit and deposits an egg in the flesh. The eggs rapidly hatch, and the larvae (a small, whitish worm) migrate to the fruit interior. Within a few weeks of infection with plum curculio, most apples will drop to the ground.

Catfacing insects. These tarnished plant bugs, stink bugs and leaf-footed bugs are among the insect species Nezara and Leptoglossus spp., medium-large (3/8 - ¾ inch-long), sucking insects that cause fruit deformities and reduce fruit marketability. Catfacing insect feeding during early fruit development cause fruit deformities, and feeding during mid- to late-fruit development can lead to brown rot and other fruit diseases.

Nuisance Mammal

Rabbit. Rabbits eat the bark of apple trees during the winter months and can kill the tree. For best control, a physical barrier -- such as hardware cloth or plastic tree guards - should be placed around the trunk of the tree.

References

Carlson, R.F. and J.H. Hull, Jr. 1975. Rootstocks for Fruit Trees. Michigan State University Extension Bulletin No. E-851. 2 pp.

Crocker, T.E. and W.B. Sherman. 1988; revised 2008. The Apple. EDIS Fact Sheet FC-14A, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG073. 3 pp. Department of Horticultural Sciences, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, Fla. Coop. Ext. Serv., University of Florida, Gainesville, FL.

Cummins, J.N. and H.S. Aldwinkle. 1982. New and Forthcoming Apple Rootstocks. Fruit Var. J. 36:66-73.

Miller, E.P. and L.H. Baker. 1982. An evaluation of apple cultivars for central and north Florida. Proc. Fla. State Hort. Soc. 95:88-90.

Momol, T., L. Ritchie, and H. Dankers. 2007 Plant Disease Management Guide: Apple (Malus sylvestris). EDIS Publication PDMG-V3-05, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PG004. 13 pp. Department of Plant Pathology, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, Fla. Coop. Ext. Serv., University of Florida, Gainesville, FL.

Westwood, M.N. 1978. Temperate Zone Pomology. W.H. Freeman and Co., San Francisco, CA.

Tables

Table 1. 

Adaption, Quality and Origin of Apple Cultivars Tested in North Florida and North Central Florida

Apple Cultivar	Origin	Area Testedz	Chilling Hoursy	Ripening Seasonx	Fruit Qualityw	Tree Adaptabilityv	Recommendation Statusu
'Adina'	Australia	M	600+	L	G	A	NR
'Akane (Tohuku #3)'	Japan	M	600+	L	P	NA	NR
'Anna'	Israel	G&M&Q	300	E	G	A	R
'Anoka'	South Dakota	M	550	M	P	A	NR
'Beverly Hills'	California	G	600	L	P	NA	NR
'Carmen'	Unknown	G	550	L	P	NA	NA
'Coast'	Africa	G	575	L	P	NA	NR
'Cole'	Victoria	M	600+	L	P	NA	NR
'Culinaria'	Brazil	G	600+	L	P	NA	NR
'Davilla Spur Golden'	Mexico	G&M	600	L	F	A	NR
'Davilla Spur Red Del'.	Mexico	M	600+	L	F	NA	NR
'Dorsett Golden'	Bahamas	G&M&Q	250	E	G	A	R
'Ein Shemer'	Israel	G&M&Q	450	M	F	A	CR
'Elah 8-6'	Israel	G&M	450	M	G	A	NR
'Fugi'	Japan	M	575	L	G	A	NR
'Gala (Kidds D-8)'	New Zealand	M	600	M	G	A	NR
'Gibbs A'	Georgia	M	600+	M	P	A	NR
'Gloria Mundi'	New York	M	600+	-	-	NA	NR
'Gordo'n	California	M	550	L	P	A	NR
'Granny Smith'	Australia	M	600+	L	-	NA	NR
'Hollin'	Georgia	M	600+	-	-	A	NR
'Huerto Los Gruelos'	Mexico	M	600+	L	-	NA	NR
'Java Red'	Unknown	G	600+	L	-	NA	NR
'Jotter'	Unknown	G	600+	L	-	NA	NR
'Key West'	Unknown	G	600+	L	-	NA	NR
'Legana'	Australia	M	575	L	P	A	NR
'Maayan'	Israel	M	450	M	G	A	CR
'Marchant'	Georgia	M	600+	-	-	NA	NR
'Medina'	New York	M	600+	L	F	A	NR
'Michal'	Israel	G&M	425	M	G	A	CR
'Mississippi #1'	Mississippi	G	600	L	-	NA	NR
'Muzalma'	Turkestan	M	600+	L	-	NA	NR
'Orleans'	New York	M	600+	L	G	A	NR
'Prince'	Georgia	M	600+	-	-	-	NR
'Puritan'	Massachusetts	M	600+	-	-	-	NR
'Rainha'	Brazil	G	600+	L	P	NA	NR
'Red Statesman'	New Zealand	M	600+	L	-	NA	NR
'Shlomit'	Israel	G&M	375	M	G	A	CR
'Tropical Beauty'	South Africa	G&M	550	L	P	A	NR
'Tropic Sweet (patented)'	Florida	G&Q	300	E	G	A	R
'Vered'	Israel	G	250	E	F	A	NR
'Winter Banana'	Indiana	M	575	L	-	NA	NR
'Zamadani'	Unknown	G	525	M	F	A	NR
UPatented +R=recommended, CR=conditionally recommended, NR=not recommendedVA=adapted, NA=not adapted WG=good, F=Fair, P=poor XE=early(late May to July), M=mid-season(July), L=late (August) YEquivalent winter chill hours required for normal bloom and foliation ZG=Gainesville, M=Monticello, Q=Quincy This table is modified from Miller and Baker (1982)

Table 2. 

Fruit Qualities of Apple Cultivars for Florida

	Flavorz	Color	Fruit Characteristics
Cultivar	Taste	Aroma	Sweet	Acid	Ground Color	Over Color	Fruit wt (oz)	Juicez	Texture	Shape	Resistance to Browningz
'Anna'	7	7	6	5	Light green to red	40 - 60% solid red	7.0	7	Crisp	Oblong conic	8
'Dorsett Goldon'	7	6	6	4	Light green to yellow	25 - 50% striped solid light red	5.3	7	Crisp	Oblique to conic	9
'Ein Shemer'	6	6	6	5	Light yellow	25 - 50% red	6.2	7	Medium	Oblong conic	8
'Elah'	6	6	7	5	Light green to yellow	25% light red	3.5	7	Medium	Round to oblique	8
'Maayan'	6	6	7	7	Light green	100% dull dark red	3.5	8	Crisp	Round oblong	8
'Michal'	6	6	6	5	Light green to yellow	50% red striped	5.3	7	Very	Round to oblate	2
'Shlomit'	6	6	6	7	Light green to light	25% rusty red	4.4	8	Crisp	Round to oblate	8
'Tropic Sweet'	8	7	9	5	Light green	50% light to red	7.0	NT	Crisp	Round conic	9
Z1=lowest, 10=highest, NT=not tested Table adapted largely from Miller and Baker (1982)

Table 3. 

Trunk Diameter and Tree Height of Third Leaf for 'Anna' and 'Dorsett Golden' Apple Trees on Four Dwarfing Rootstocks

Rootstock	Scion	Trunk Diameter (inches)	Tree height (feet)
Mark	'Anna'	1.5 ± 0.3	6.6 ± 0.5
M7A	'Anna'	2.0 ± 0.2	7.7 ± 0.6
P22	'Anna'	0.9 ± 0.2	6.2 ± 0.9
MM106	'Anna'	2.0 ± 0.2	8.4 ± 0.4
Mark	'Dorsett Golden'	0.7 ± 0.1	4.2 ± 1.5
M7A	'Dorsett Golden'	2.1 ± 0.3	8.7 ± 0.6
P22	'Dorsett Golden'	0.9 ± 0.3	6.4 ± 2.6
MM106	'Dorsett Golden'	2.2 ± 0.2	7.3 ± 2.1
Main effectsy
Rootstock		***	*
Scion		N.S.	N.S
Interactive effects
Rootstock * Scion		N.S.	N.S.
ZValues correspond to means ± SE. YSignificance based on F Values, *, ***, and N.S. correspond to significant at 5%, 0.1%, or not significant, respectively.

Table 4. 

Characteristics of Four Dwarfing Apple RootstocksZ

	Mark	M7A	P22	MM106
Percentage dwarfingY	35%	65%	35%	80%
Precocity inducement	Exc.	Exc.	Exc.	Exc.
Production inducement	Exc.	Exc.	Exc.	Exc.
Anchorage	Good	Fair	Good	Good
Sucker production (lack of)	Good	Fair	Good	Very Good
Sandy soil tolerance	Good	Good	Not tested	Good
Clay soil tolerance	Good	Fair	Not tested	Good
Drought resistance	Not tested	Fair	Not tested	Good
Flooding tolerance	Not tested	Not tested	Not tested	Fair
High pH tolerance	Not tested	Not tested	Not tested	Good
Crown rot resistance	Not tested	Fair	Good	Poor
Fire blight resistance	Fair	Good	Fair	Fair
Powdery mildew resistance	Fair	Not tested	Not tested	Poor

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Millie Ferrer-Chancy, Interim Dean.

The Fig1

Peter C. Andersen and Timothy E. Crocker2

History of Fig Cultivation

The fig (Ficus carica L; family Moracea) originated in the Old World Tropics -- Asia Minor and the Mediterranean region. In the Mediterranean, the fig has been cultivated since as early as 5,000 BC.

The fig tree was first introduced to the Americas in 1575 by Spanish explorers in Florida. On the West Coast, in the area that eventually became the State of California, Spanish Franciscan missionaries introduced the cultivar, Mission, to the area that, in 1769, became the mission San Diego. Additional fig cultivars were also imported to the California area from Mediterranean countries, including Turkey.

Because some of the imported figs required pollination by the fig wasp (Blastophaga psenes), the absence of this wasp lead to an initial failure of fig cultivation on the West Coast. This impediment to cultivation was remedied by the importation of the fig wasp.

However, the fruit of these fig cultivars had open "eyes" or ostioles (opening at the fruit apex) and were often attacked by insects and diseases. Scientists -- including Ira J. Condit, William B. Storey and others working on genetic improvement of figs -- released new cultivars with closed eyes, cultivars that did not require pollination. Additionally, many fig cultivars were imported from the Old World within the last 50 years. Currently, however, no fig-breeding programs remain in the United States, and among at least 60-100 named cultivars of figs, relatively few are commonly grown in the southeastern United States.

Adaptation

The fig is adapted to dry, Mediterranean-type climates, such as California. The humid growing season in Florida is associated with enhanced insect and disease pressure, and rain can cause fruit to split. Fig cultivars do not require more than 100 hours of temperature of 45°F or less during the dormant season to promote normal vegetative and reproductive bud development. As a result, figs receive sufficient winter chilling in all areas of Florida except south. Fully dormant trees are hardy to about 15 -20°F. Exposure of trees to low temperature preconditions can increase cold hardiness.

Fig trees that are not cold conditioned often sustain cold injury in Florida and in other parts of the southeastern United States. Fig trees grown in this region are frozen to the ground in some years and, consequently, will often have a bush-like growth habit after sprouting back from the roots.

Description of Tree

Growth Habit

The fig is a deciduous tree that can reach 50 feet in height. However, in the southeastern United States, this tree is seldom taller than 25 feet due to periodic cold injury to the trunk and limbs. Most fig trees in the southeastern United States are multiple-branched shrubs. Fig wood is weak and decays rapidly. Small branches tend to be more pithy than woody. When branches are cut or damaged, they produce copious quantities of a milky latex that can be a skin irritant. This latex contains a protein-degrading enzyme called ficin, which is similar to papain. Fig trees produce roots that can be very deep in well drained soils. The lateral spread of roots can be substantial.

Leaf Morphology

Fig leaves are large (up to 1 foot long), thick, colored a bright dark green, single and alternate. These leaves are deeply lobed with usually three to five sinuses. Leaves contain trichomes (pubescence), which is particularly rough on the adaxial (upper) leaf surface. Leaf pubescence can also be an irritant to the skin.

Flower Morphology

Flowers are minute, unisexual, bearing either stamens or pistils, depending upon the type of fig. Flowers are borne in leaf axils. Common figs are all female and do not require pollination (discussed below).

Fruit

Fruit Morphology

The fruit of a fig is unique and is derived from a hollow peduncle that becomes fleshy and forms a structure called a synconium. The unfertilized ovaries provide the resin-like flavor associated with fruit of fig. Fruit can contain a closed or an open ostiole or eye located at the fruit apex.

Fruit Types

There are four types of figs -- Caprifigs, Smyrna, San Pedro and common types, which are recommended for Florida. Caprifigs produce staminate (male) flowers and are useful only as a source of pollen. Smyrna bears only pistillate (female) flowers and requires a caprifig for pollination. San Pedro has pistillate flowers and bears two crops, one on leafless wood requiring no pollination and the other borne on new wood that requires pollination. Fig cultivars recommended for Florida belong to the common types of fig and are parthenocarpic; fruit develop without pollination. Smryna and San Pedro types will not bear fruit in Florida because of the absence of Caprifigs and a wasp pollenizer (Blastophaga psenes). Because the common types of fig do not require a wasp pollinizer, the best cultivars have a closed ostiole to minimize rotting by preventing the occurrence of insects or rain water inside the fruit.

Culture and Management

Location

Figs perform best in locations with full sun all day. Fig trees often shade out competing vegetation below the tree canopy. These trees should not be confined to a small landscape. The trunk and major limbs, if not shaded, can experience sun scald, which can be minimized by applying white latex paint. The root system of fig trees can extend well beyond the tree canopy.

Planting

In Florida, bare-rooted fig plants can be planted during the dormant season, from December to late February. Container-grown plants can be planted any time of the year provided they receive irrigation.

Irrigation

Irrigation is required for fig trees during the establishment year. During that period, a fig tree should receive 10 gallons per application at least three times a week. Irrigation after the establishment year is optional except during a prolonged drought. For mature fig trees, irrigation of 20-50 gallons per tree can be applied if a drought persists more than a few weeks. Drought-stressed trees are more susceptible to nematodes and will not fruit well.

Pruning

Fig trees do not require pruning to be productive. Sometimes fig trees are pruned to a central leader or to a modified central leader, but such pruning is usually futile since these trees are often frozen back and regrow in bush form. Freeze-damaged wood should be eliminated after regrowth commences. The fruit is borne on terminals of wood from the previous year. Thus, the amount of pruning should be minimal.

If the tree is pruned, the pruning should occur after fruit ripening (early in the summer) to allow for flower-bud initiation for the next year. For late-maturing cultivars, pruning may result in a significant reduction in yield the next year. Heavy winter pruning can eliminate the entire crop the following year.

Fertilization

Little information is available concerning fertility requirements of fig trees. However, the general consensus is that fig trees typically require light fertilization. Excess fertilization can promote excessive vegetative growth and low yield. If the total amount of vegetative growth is less than one foot in length, then it is appropriate to apply fertilizer. For young trees, ½ pound of 10-10-10 with micronutrients can be applied three to five times during the growing season, starting in late winter (February to March) and ending by 1 August. For large trees, apply 2-4 pounds of 10-10-10 with micronutrients three to five times during the growing season (February to August).

Cold Injury

Fig trees often sustain cold injury in the southeastern United States. Brown Turkey and Celeste are common cultivars that are reported to be more cold hardy than many other fig cultivars. Cultural practices that promote a growth flush in late summer (the application of fertilizer and irrigation) should be discouraged since this tender tissue will be frozen and killed by temperatures just below freezing.

Fig trees in Florida often are not cold-conditioned in the fall prior to the onset of winter cold. If properly cold-conditioned, however, fully dormant trees can withstand temperatures from 15-20°F without severe damage. Dormant buds are more susceptible than wood to sub freezing temperatures. As mentioned earlier, most fig trees in the southeastern United States assume a bush-like, rather than a tree-like growth habit due to cold injury of the trunk and major scaffold limbs.

Propagation

Fig trees are usually propagated by using dormant cuttings. Select dormant wood about 8-12 inches long and less than 1 inch in diameter. The basal end of the cutting should be 2-year-old wood.

Place cuttings in moist, but not wet Perlite or in another moist, porous medium. At least half the length of the cutting should be below the soil level. The basal ends of cutting should callus in two to three weeks at a temperature of 50-60°F. Rooting efficiency can be enhanced by making basal cuts directly below the nodes and by the use of a rooting hormone. Leafy shoots require frequent irrigation or the use of a mist bed until roots are fully functional. (For more info on the construction of a mist bed, readers are referred to Installation of Mist Propagation Equipment, http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP032.) Fig trees are rarely propagated by chip or patch budding or by whip, side, inlay or cleft grafting. Rooted cuttings can be transferred to the field after sufficient roots have formed. Newly set trees should receive irrigation every day or every two days.

Pests

Fig trees are a moderately sustainable crop, but suffer from a number of animal and disease pests. Fig tree roots are a favorite food of birds, gophers, rabbits and squirrels, which also feed on the fruit. Root knot nematodes can also be a limitation for fig trees planted in sandy soils, but are not usually a problem in fertile or loamy soils. Organic amendments or mulches reduce nematode damage. A number of insects and diseases can attack fig fruit if the cultivar is one with an open eye.

The most common disease of fig in the southeastern United States is the fig rust (Cerotelium fici). Fig rust turn leaves brown, can cause defoliation and premature ripening of the fruit and decreases cold tolerance. This disease can be controlled by a 5-5-50 Bordeaux spray (copper sulfate, lime and water) applied every two to three weeks.

Other fig diseases include Botrytis cinerea (fungus), Cercospora leaf spot fungus (Cercospora fici), which causes branch terminals to turn black and die. Thread blight (Pellicularia koleroga) results in necrosis of stems and matted foliage. Botryosphaeria dothidea (fungus) causes necrosis of leaves and stems. Rhyzopus stolonifer (smut) causes fruit drop of cultivars with an open eye. Fusarium spp. and Aspergillus niger are fungus that attack ripe fruit.

Although many diseases attack figs, most figs are grown in homeowner settings and do not receive pesticide sprays. The most common insect pests are mealy bug, three-lined fig borer and ants. The application of insecticide is seldom warranted. Please contact your County Extension Agent for spray recommendations.

Fig Cultivars

Cultivar Selection

Characteristics that should be considered in the selection of fig cultivars include the following:

1. Cold hardiness;

2. The ability to set fruit without pollination (parthenocarpy);

3. Fruit having a closed eye or ostiole;

4. A long peduncle that allows the fruit to droop and shed moisture; and

5. A green skin on fruit to minimize bird herbivory.

Ten cultivars of figs (Alma, Black Spanish, Brown Turkey, Conadria, Celeste, Jelly, Osborne Prolific, Pasquale, Tena and Ventura) have been evaluated in a replicated trial at the University of Florida's North Florida Research and Education Center in Monticello, Fla. Other cultivars of figs not tested by the University of Florida include the following: Champagne, Green Ischia, Hunt, Kadota, LSU Gold, LSU Purple, Magnolia, O’Rourke and Tiger.

Characteristics of Fig Cultivars

A summary of the characteristics of the fig cultivars follows below. Alternate names of cultivars appear in parentheses:

Alma: This cultivar is reported to produce high yields. Alma is moderately cold tolerant and produces a medium-sized fruit with brown skin and a light tan pulp. The eye is medium, and the fruit has few seeds and is very sweet. Fruit ripens from late July through August and is good fresh or processed.

Black Spanish (California Brown Turkey, San Pedro): This cultivar yields medium-sized, purplish-brown fruit with a red center. Black Spanish has an eye open. Fruit ripen in June and in August.

Brown Turkey (Brunswick, Eastern Brown Turkey, Harrison, Lees Perpetual, Ramsey, Texas Everbearing): This cultivar is probably the most popular fig in the southeastern United States. A small crop of fruit in the spring (called breba fruit) ripens in July followed by the main crop one month later. The fruit is medium-large in size, has bronze skin and amber pulp. The fruit has a small-to-medium ostiole and is good fresh or processed.

Celeste (Blue Celeste, Celestial, and Little Brown Sugar): This cultivar is probably the second-most common fig in the southeastern United States. Celeste is fairly cold hardy, and the fruit is small to medium in size and purplish-bronze to light brown in color. Celeste has a closed eye and begins ripening in early July. Celeste is good fresh or processed.

Champagne (Golden Celeste): This newly released cultivar from Louisiana State University produces a medium-sized fruit with yellow skin, tan colored pulp and a closed ostiole. Fruit ripening is early July.

Conadria (Genoa): This cultivar is a vigorous tree that produces fruit that are green to yellow in color. Flesh of the fruit is pink to red with a good flavor. The eye is small and tight. Fruit ripening is in June and again in August. Conadria fruit are good fresh and excellent dried.

Green Ischia (Ischia Green, Ischia Verte, and White Ischia): This cultivar produces a green small to medium sized fruit with a strawberry center and a closed eye. Fruit of Green Ischia ripens in late July to early August.

Hunt: This cultivar is very cold hardy and produces a small pear-shaped, violet-brown fruit with a long neck. Hunt has a closed eye, amber-colored flesh and few seeds; fruit ripen in July.

Jelly (Mary Lane Seedless): This cultivar produces a long-necked, yellow fig that is medium in size with clear amber flesh and very few seeds. Fruit of Jelly is good for eating fresh and preserving although the skin is soft. Jelly ripens in late July to August.

Kadota (Florentine): This cultivar produces a medium-large, yellow fruit with an open ostiole that is partially sealed with a honey-like substance. Fruit quality declines with extremely wet weather. Although Kadota figs can be eaten fresh, they are better suited for canning and preserves. Fruit ripening is July.

LSU Gold: This cultivar is a Louisiana State University release that produces a large, yellow fig with pink-to-red pulp. Fruit of LSU Gold should be picked as soon as it is mature since this fruit has an open eye and fruit spoilage may occur. Fruit ripening is July through August. Fruit is of good quality for eating fresh and for preserving.

LSU Purple: This cultivar is a Louisiana State University release that produces a medium-small, glossy purple fig that has amber-to-pink flesh with a closed eye. The main crop ripens in August although some fruit can ripen well into the fall. Fruit is of good quality for eating fresh and for preserving.

Magnolia (Brunswick, Madonna): This cultivar is common in some parts of the southeastern United States, but not in Florida. Magnolia is cold hardy down to 50°F, and often produces the largest fig available. Fruit is asymmetric, bronze in color and has an open ostiole. The flesh is amber to strawberry in color. Ripening is from mid July through August. Fruit should be picked as early as possible since they may split and turn sour under wet conditions. Magnolia is best suited for preserving.

Mission (Black Mission, Franciscana): A large, black fig with reddish-pink pulp. Mission is an ever bearing fig that produces fruit from summer to winter. Not sufficiently cold-hardy for the southeastern United States.

O'Rourke (Improved Celeste): This cultivar is a Louisiana State University fig that produces a small-to-medium-sized fruit, which is brown in color with tan pulp. The eye is partially closed with the aid of a honey-like substance. Fruit ripening is early July. Fruit is of good quality for eating fresh and for preserving.

Osborn Prolific (Arachipel, Hardy Prolific, Neveralla, Osborne, Rust): This cultivar produces a medium-large fruit with reddish, brown skin and light-colored flesh. The fruit is sweet with few seeds. The eye is partially closed. Osborn Prolific is reported to perform better in cooler climates. Fruit ripening is August, and the fruit is best eaten fresh.

Pasquale (Natalino, Vernino): This cultivar produces a sweet, small, purple fig with amber-to-pink pulp. Pasquale ripens late November to December and is often damaged by frost. Pasquale is not cold hardy. Not recommended for the southeastern United States.

Tena: A medium-large fig that is greenish-yellow in color with light strawberry pulp. The fruit has a closed ostiole. Tena thrives in hot, dry weather. The fruit is good for eating fresh or preserving.

Tiger (Giant Celeste): This new cultivar released by Louisiana State University has a large brown fruit, yellow pulp and a partially closed eye. Fruit of Tiger ripens in early July.

Ventura (Verdal louange): This cultivar produces a large, green fruit with a long neck. The pulp is deep red with excellent flavor. Fruit ripen from August to September. Fruit may be eaten fresh or preserved.

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Millie Ferrer-Chancy, Interim Dean.

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Deciduous Fruits for the Home Gardener in North Florida and North Central Florida1

T.E. Crocker and J.G. Williamson2

Developing and maintaining a successful home orchard requires much horticultural skill because fruit trees are perennial. Generally, homeowners who select the wrong cultivar (variety) or site will fail regardless of how much care and attention they provide. Despite the careful attention needed, the pleasure of eating truly fresh fruit picked at its peak of maturity more than compensates the enthusiast for the time and effort. A well-designed and well-managed home orchard can furnish both fine fruit and pleasant hours of gardening. This publication describes the various types of orchard fruits, their suitability to the Florida home orchard, and the process involved in raising a home orchard.

Descriptions

Stone Fruits

Peaches, nectarines, and plums are called stone, or drupe, fruits because they consist of a seed enclosed in a heavy pit or stone, surrounded by soft flesh. Certain cultivars of these fruits can be grown successfully in Florida. Other stone fruits, such as apricots, almonds, and cherries are not well-adapted to Florida and should not be planted here. The various stone fruits are closely related, all being different species within the same genus, Prunus.

Fruit development

The fruit development occurs in stages. During the first stage, which starts immediately after fruit set, the stone or pit is soft and the proportion of flesh to pit is small. The second stage is a transitional stage during which the pit hardens. After pit hardening, the third stage begins; the flesh develops rapidly and the fruit diameter increases correspondingly. This is often called the final swell.

Peach, nectarine, and plum trees often set too many fruit, and some of them must be removed to obtain desired fruit size. This Procedure is called fruit thinning. Fruit are usually thinned to one fruit per 4 to 6 inches of stem length. To obtain the maximum benefit from thinning, it must be done prior to pit hardening which is the second stage of fruit development. This stage can be recognized by the increased difficulty of cutting through the pit with a knife. When the knife first encounters a resistance to cutting through the seed, the pit hardening stage has begun.

Optimum soil moisture conditions are essential during the final swell to increase fruit size. Irrigation is necessary during dry periods due to the characteristic shallow root system of stone fruits. Avoid frequent light irrigations because this tends to promote root development near the soil surface, further increasing the shallowness of the root system. A general rule is to apply 2 inches of water every 10 to 14 days, unless adequate rainfall occurs.

You can measure the amount of water by placing a can or another empty container under the tree during watering. When the water level in the can reaches 2 inches, enough water has been applied.

Peach and nectarine trees usually make extensive terminal growth each year, which requires relatively heavy annual pruning. On the other hand, plums fruit on both long twigs and on very short twigs, called spurs. Since there is less terminal growth for plums than for peaches, correspondingly less pruning is needed for plums. Fruit buds are produced during the spring and summer on current season growth.

Chilling requirements

Most deciduous fruit trees, including stone fruits, require accumulated exposure to cool temperatures during winter dormancy for the resumption of normal growth the following spring. This requirement is specific for each cultivar and is referred to as its chilling requirement (Figure 1). Common cultivars grown in more northern climates are too high in chilling requirement to be grown successfully in Florida. Only those cultivars adapted to Florida's mild winter climate should be considered.

In Florida, stone fruits tend to bloom soon after the chilling requirement is satisfied. This, coupled with alternating periods of warm and cold weather during the late winter and spring in Florida, may result in early bloom which is frequently damaged by late freezes. Because of this hazard, the warmest sites within the orchard should be reserved for stone fruits.

Rootstocks

Peach and nectarine rootstocks require good soil drainage. The Marianna plum is not a good rootstock for peaches because the tree will be very short-lived. On the other hand, peach can be used as a rootstock for plums — but only when planted on well-drained soils. In Florida, however, only rootknot nematode-resistant peach rootstocks, such as Flordaguard, should be considered.

Peaches, nectarines, and plums are susceptible to a multitude of pests, including diseases, nematodes and insects. Thus, a regular pest control program must be followed to insure good fruit quality.

Pome Fruits

Apple (Malus domestica), pear (Pyrus spp.), quince (Cydonia oblonga), and the native haw (Crataegus spp.), commonly called mayhaw, are examples of pome fruits. Most apple, pear, and quince cultivars are not well-adapted to Florida because of their high chilling requirement.

Fire blight, a bacterial disease, is particularly damaging throughout the southeastern United States and prevents successful production of most soft dessert or European-type pears in Florida and other southeastern states.

Oriental or hard pears and some hybrids with European types are tolerant of fire blight, and some of these cultivars are adapted to Florida's climate. Even adapted cultivars are susceptible to leaf spot, and proper control requires more spraying than the hobbyist is likely to accept. Moreover, except for canning, the quality of Oriental pears is poor. On the other hand, pears will grow and produce on virtually all soils, and the bloom has ornamental value. Some hobbyists are willing to accept the reduced yield and quality of the fruit that results from leaf spot.

The native haw makes a small, attractive dooryard tree, but the small fruits are used only for making jelly.

Persimmons

The Oriental persimmon (Diospyros kaki) is well-adapted to northern Florida. It is often budded on native persimmon (D. virginia) seedlings.

Care must be taken in fertilizing persimmons because excessive nitrogen fertilization increases plant vigor and may cause young fruit to drop prematurely. Late growth in the fall and activation of cambial growth of the trunk during warm periods, followed by freezing temperatures in the winter, may cause bark to split and cold cankers to develop.

Some persimmon cultivars are seedy and others seedless. Some must become soft before the fruit loses its astringency. Others are nonastringent and can be eaten while still firm and crisp. In the United States, the demand for persimmon is very low, even though the persimmon is a favorite fruit of commercial significance in the Orient. For local use, persimmons can be grown on a wide range of soils with little or no pest control or pruning. The tree itself has large, glossy, green leaves and highly colored fruit that make it a beautiful dooryard tree.

Figs

The edible fig (Ficus carica) is structurally a fleshy, hollow stem with flowers produced on the inner walls of the cavity. There is an opening or eye at the apex of the false fruit through which disease organisms and insects can enter, causing souring and splitting. However, cultivars do differ in the extent to which this eye is open, and those such as Celeste, which have eyes that are not open until near maturity, are best-adapted to Florida.

Some fig cultivars require cross-pollination by a special wasp that is not present in Florida, and should not be planted because the fruits fall before maturing.

Fig trees grow vigorously. While they do not require pruning for continued fruit production, pruning helps control tree size and prolongs the fruiting season. Although quite hardy when fully winter dormant, the fig often leafs out early in the spring and is killed back by late freezes. Throughout much of north and north central Florida, late freeze damage usually keeps the tree from attaining a large size and results in development of a bush form with several major branches, rather than a tree with a single trunk.

The fig is best-adapted to near-desert conditions, but actually grows well throughout most of the southern United States. In Florida's humid climate, fig rust should be controlled with fungicide sprays. A fruit weevil, which cannot be controlled economically, often causes damage. Rootknot nematode can cause severe damage, especially on deep, sandy soils. On sandy soils, best results are obtained when trees are planted near a building or are heavily mulched. In both cases, a more favorable root environment is furnished. Full sun is desirable, and competition from grass and other plants should be avoided.

Pecans

The pecan is one of the most important tree crops grown in the South and makes a beautiful dooryard tree. It belongs to the Juglandaceae family, along with the hickories and black walnuts, but it is in a separate genus (Carya).

Perhaps the most vexing problem with pecans is their tendency to bear heavy crops some years and very light or no crops during others. There is also a tendency for many nuts to be poorly filled. Several factors enter into these two problems. The pecan requires large amounts of food, which is produced by the leaves, for kernel formation or "filling" in the late summer and early fall just prior to leaf drop. When crops are excessively heavy, there is not enough food to fill the nuts, the shell of which formed much earlier. Heavy crops also deplete the food reserves needed to form flower buds in the following spring, so a light crop results the following year. Thus, it is highly important that leaf surfaces remain undamaged during the growing season and into the fall to produce the maximum amount of food for the maturing nuts and the following year's flowers. There are many diseases, insects, and mites that may damage the leaves sufficiently to cause poor filling and flowering. A fall flush of new leaves also is very damaging because this requires food that would otherwise be used for nut and flower formation. New leaves do not mature soon enough to produce sufficient food to compensate for the energy used in their formation.

Damage to the green shuck of the pecan by such pests as shuck-worm or scab may result in poor filling even though a good leaf surface is present. Cultivars susceptible to scab should not be planted. Erratic or alternate bearing can be held to a minimum through proper pest control and other cultural programs.

The pecan is somewhat unique in its production of female flowers on the tips of new shoots and male flowers or catkins on the old wood. If, as is sometimes the case, male flowers produce pollen at a time when female flowers are not mature, the failure to pollinate results in little or no crop. However, lack of pollination is seldom a problem in pecan areas because pollen from other cultivars (which mature their pollen at different times) is carried by wind to the female flowers of cultivars which do not yet have their own pollen available.

While pecan trees can be grown rather easily, a good crop requires a well-fertilized soil and a carefully planned and executed program of pest control. This sort of program and site selection is often not possible for the producer of dooryard pecans; however, the erratic bearing can be tolerated because the beauty and shade produced justify the planting of dooryard pecan trees.

Blackberries

There are several species of blackberries, all in the genus Rubus. Some are upright and require no support, but others are trailing and require a trellis. The trailing types are called dewberries.

Blackberries are among the easiest fruits to grow and are one of the most widely adapted fruits. Native species and commercial plantings extend from Florida to the Pacific Northwest. However, cultivars differ as to winter chilling requirement and susceptibility to diseases. Proper cultivar selection is important for successful production.

Blackberries produce their flowers and fruits on the previous year's growth. These shoots die back at the end of the fruiting year, and new growth which arises from below the ground in the spring forms the new fruiting surface for the next year. This growth is very extensive during Florida's long growing season, permitting the pruning of both old and new growth back to ground level immediately after harvest (see Pruning and Training, p. 11) Since blackberries produce shallow fleshy root systems, deep cultivation must be avoided. Many new plants arise from the root system several feet from the original plant and must be removed to keep an organized, easy-to-manage planting.

Blackberries thrive on virtually all soils. Complete crop loss due to late spring frosts is less likely than for many fruits because of a prolonged season of bloom.

Blueberries

Two types of blueberries can be grown in Florida; rabbiteye (Vaccinium ashei) and southern highbush which is a hybrid of V. ashei, V. corymbosum and V. darrowi. Low-chilling cultivars of rabbiteye and southern highbush developed by the University of Florida and elsewhere are well-adapted to various regions of Florida. Generally, rabbiteyes grow best in regions of Florida where winters are as cold as in Ocala, or colder. Southern highbush cultivars are best-adapted to areas of Florida south of Ocala and north of Sebring. Although, they grow well in Gainesville if their flowers are protected from late-winter and early-spring freezes.

Blueberries form a bush with numerous canes arising at or near the base of the plant. The canes and their branches survive and produce fruit for several years but eventually become weak and sometimes die back. Occasionally, the bush becomes too thick for easy harvesting. This is corrected by pruning out several of the leaders or branches.

Blueberries require acid soils (pH 4.0 to 5.2) and benefit from mulch and relatively high soil organic matter content (2 to 3%). Soil organic matter may be increased by incorporating acidic peat into the planting hole. Blueberry roots grow near the soil surface and are very susceptible to injury from over fertilization. For young blueberry plants, fertilizer should be applied frequently in very small amounts. Blueberries respond better to ammoniacal N than to nitrate N. Acid-forming azalea or camellia fertilizers usually work well for blueberries. Because they are shallow-rooted, blueberries often are damaged when cultivation is used for weed control. Mulch is preferred to cultivation for weed control in blueberries for at least two reasons: (1) roots are not damaged; and (2) the mulch decomposes and adds organic matter to the soil. Despite the very specific demands of the blueberry, the plants are very long-lived.

Grapes

There are several species of American-type grapes native to the southeastern United States. These include the muscadine (Vitis rotundifolia) cultivars and several other species of slip-skinned grapes — so called because the entire ball of flesh slips from the skin when the fruit is squeezed. These grapes have tough skins and flesh and are seedy. The tender-fleshed, seedless European-type grapes (V. vinefera) are not adapted to the southeastern United States. Breeding programs have resulted in cultivars that are much better than the native types.

The grape produces on long branches, called canes, from previous season's growth. A great many of these canes must be removed each year and the others cut back rather severely. For commercial production, no fruit crop has such a demanding pruning requirement. However, satisfactorily producing fruit for the home or local market requires a much less exacting program. Grape arbors, often used to landscape an area, require that canes be thinned out and cut back only occasionally to prevent growth from becoming too dense.

Adapted cultivars tolerate a wide range of soils. Cultural practices, such as fertilizing, irrigating and controlling pests are not unusually demanding.

Planting the Orchard

Site Selection

Home gardeners should select orchard sites near enough to their homes for convenience, but far enough away to allow the safe application of pesticides. Where possible, avoid selecting low-lying areas where cold air tends to collect during calm radiation freezes. Thick woods and undergrowth on the lower side of an orchard may prevent drainage of cold air away from the orchard thereby increasing the frost hazard.

Fertile sandy loam soil underlaid with a reddish-yellow to red subsoil which has moderate internal drainage is best for most fruits. Deep sands which do not hold moisture are usable if properly irrigated and fertilized. Soils with gray or mottled subsoils are poorly drained and not suitable for fruit orchards.

Site Preparation

A soil test should be conducted several months before planting an orchard. If soil test results indicate a need for phosphorous or lime, they should be applied and disked into the soil prior to planting the orchard.

Planting

Trees should be planted without delay when they arrive from the nursery. Prior to planting, keep the trees' roots moist and protected from dry air and direct sunshine. If planting cannot be done when plants arrive, they should be "heeled-in" in a shady area. This is accomplished by digging a hole in which several plants can be placed and their roots covered with moist soil, sawdust, leaf mold, or some other suitable material. For easier handling, plants are usually slanted in the holes.

Planting is a good time to inspect roots for signs of insects, diseases, nematodes, or other abnormalities. Keep the trees' roots moist during planting. Prepare the planting hole large enough so that the root system is neither crowded, bent, or broken. Remove all extra long or broken roots before planting. Place plants upright and at the same depth that they grow in the nursery. Fill the planting hole with one or two shovels of soil at a time, packing the soil lightly around the roots to remove air pockets. Repeat this procedure until the hole is full of soil and the plant is firmly in place. Fertilizer should not be placed directly in the planting hole because this can result in high salt concentrations near the roots, which can damage young trees.

It is normally desirable to add water when the hole is about two-thirds filled with soil in order to settle the soil around the roots. After the water has soaked into the soil, finish filling the hole. Give particular attention to irrigation during the first year. Adding mulch will conserve moisture, but it will not substitute for watering during dry periods.

Fruit trees may be planted anytime during the dormant season, but the period from late December through January is best because it allows time for soil to settle and roots to become established before spring growth. Trees planted late in the spring are more likely to die during the following dry periods of that year.

Pruning or heading back at planting time is desirable. Removal of about one half of the top growth is recommended. This is back to about knee height on peach, plum, apple, pear, and chestnut. (See discussion under Pruning and Training, p. 11) It is best to buy vigorous plants of average size from a reliable nursery. Do not use stunted, spindly, or old trees. Cheap nursery stock often is of poor quality and may result in slow growing, poorly developed trees. Such trees are often incorrectly labeled.

The spacing of plants in a home orchard can vary considerably due to location and equipment to be used in cultivation. Suggested spacing is given in Table 1 .

Cultivars

Table 2 lists persimmon cultivars (varieties) for North Florida. See Table 3 for characteristics of peach and nectarine cultivars grown in north Florida, and Table 4 for those grown in central and north central Florida. Table 5 gives information on plum cultivars, Table 6 on pear cultivars, Table 7 on pecan cultivars, Table 8 on blueberry cultivars, and Table 9 gives information on grape cultivars.

Apple

Anna. A medium-size fruit that ripens in late June and early July. Its shape is similar to Delicious, but with approximately 30 to 40% red blush. Flavor is good (sweet to semi-acid).

Dorsett Golden. A medium-size fruit which ripens in late June with a 10% red blush and shape similar to Golden Delicious. Flavor is sweet, and fruit are firmer than Anna.

TropicSweet (Fla. 90-3). TropicSweet is released by the Florida Agricultural Experiment Station and patent rights assigned to Florida Foundation Seed Producers, Inc. for distribution. This variety originated as [(N.J.38 x Anna) polycross]. TropicSweet blooms with Anna, but ripens 5 to 7 days earlier — during early June in Gainesville, Florida. Trees of TropicSweet are not self-fruitful, but this variety is cross-pollinated with either Anna or Dorsett Golden. Fruit are less red, firmer, and taste sweeter than Anna. Fruit sugar levels are 14 to 15 brix but acidity in fruit is low, resulting in a very sweet taste. Fruit size is similar to Anna with comparable crop loads. Fruit are round-conic. Trees are semi-spreading with semi-spur type bearing habit.

Fig

Brown Turkey. A medium-size fruit that ripens about mid-July and bears fruit for an extended period if growing conditions are good. It bears a small crop the season following severe freeze damage.

Celeste. A small, light brown to violet fruit that ripens about mid-July. It does not sour as badly as Brown Turkey because of a tight eye but does not fruit the season following severe freeze damage.

Other fig cultivars: Green Ischia, Alma, and Magnolia.

Chestnut

AU-Cropper, AU-Leader, AU-Homestead, and Black Beauty are suitable Chinese chestnuts. Dunstan, Lucky 13, and Carpenter are recommended Chinese x American hybrids.

Blackberry and Raspberry

Blackberry cultivars that can be grown for home use include early season trailing types, Flordagrand and Oklawaha; and the later fruiting semi-erect types, Brazos, Cheyenne, Comanche, and Cherokee. Semi-erect types are self fruitful. Flordagrand and Oklawaha are self unfruitful and should be planted together for cross pollination. Two thornless cultivars can be grown in North Florida. They are Arapaho and Navaho released by the University of Arkansas. Alternate rows or alternate plants of each should be used for cross-pollination. Dorman Red is the only raspberry worth trial, and it lacks typical raspberry flavor.

Table 3. Peaches and nectarines grown in North Florida.

Table 5. Characteristics of plum cultivars.

Table 6. Characteristics of pear cultivars.

Table 7. Characteristics of pecan cultivars.

Table 8. Blueberry varieties grown in Florida.

Table 9. Characteristics of grape cultivars.

Fertilization

General

Precise fertilizer requirements of tree fruits may vary appreciably depending upon the soil — even within the same orchard. Any number of fertilizer programs will result in good production, but some will be wasteful. Growers should observe the response of plants to each fertilizer application and lower or raise future applications accordingly.

Soil tests, especially for determinations of soil pH, phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium may be helpful in determining fertilizer requirements. However, it should be understood that responses to fertilizer are slower for tree crops than for annual crops.

In small orchards, application of fertilizer by hand is satisfactory. The fertilizer should be spread evenly around the tree, covering all the area under the branches.

Preplanting

Adequate preplanting preparation and fertilization is necessary in the production of fruits and nuts. Soil testing of the area to be planted may be useful in determining the need for phosphorous and lime. A general rule for virgin land, or areas where very little fertilizer has been used, is to apply 1,000 lbs of superphosphate per acre, disked into the top 6 inches of soil — particularly in western Florida where soils are inherently low in phosphorus. Except for blueberries, which grow best in acid soils, 2 tons of dolomitic limestone per acre will often benefit young plants. Zinc deficiencies have occurred in many orchard crops of western Florida, and it is suggested that zinc be applied to the orchard at the rate of 10 lbs of zinc oxide equivalent per acre about every 5 years. This may be done at any time of year.

Peach, Plum, Pear, Persimmon, Apple, and Fig

Apply about 1 lb of 10-10-10 fertilizer per tree during May of the first season after planting. Each February in succeeding years, apply about 1½ lbs of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each year of age of the tree until a maximum of 10 to 15 lbs per tree is reached. Excessive nitrogen fertilizer results in vigorous growth that requires excessive pruning and drastically reduces the number of fruit buds formed. Also, overly vigorous pear trees are often attacked by the bacterial disease, fire blight.

Pecan and Chestnut

Apply 1 lb of 10-10-10 fertilizer per tree the first season. This application should be made in May. After the first season, apply 10-10-10 fertilizer each February at the rate of 2 lbs for each year of age of pecan trees with the maximum of 50 lbs per tree. Chestnuts require about 1 lb for each year of age with a maximum of 15 lbs per tree.

Blueberry, Blackberry, and Grape (bunch and muscadine)

Blueberries are very sensitive to nitrogen and can be killed easily — particularly when they are young. Exercise extreme caution when fertilizing young plants. An annual application of 2 ounces of acid fertilizer (such as for camellias and azaleas) per plant in February is ample fertilizer on 2-year-old plants.

Mature blackberry vines should receive three applications of 1/3 lb of a complete fertilizer (i.e., 10-10-10) with the first application in late February, the second shortly after harvest, and the third in late August.

Grapes (bunch and muscadine) should be fertilized at the rate of 1½ lbs of 10-10-10 for each year of age with a maximum of 5 lbs per plant applied in late February.

Cultivation and Mulching

Cultivation for weed control is necessary but should be shallow and as infrequent as possible. Completely avoid deep plowing. The most common method of cultivation is disking, but chopping and mowing also are used.

An area around young plants at least 3 feet in diameter should be kept continuously free of weeds to prevent heavy competition with the shallow roots. Older trees can be cultivated less frequently.

Mulching young plants may control weeds and conserve moisture. Many materials are available for use in small plantings or around single trees. Materials such as oak leaves, pine needles and hay are suitable. Sawdust is satisfactory but should not be incorporated into the soil since this may reduce the amount of nitrogen available for plant growth. Under warm, moist conditions, nitrogen becomes tied-up by bacteria that are decomposing the sawdust. While this can be overcome by applying extra nitrogen, this may result in undesirable vigorous growth late in the season. Young trees, kept in a state of vigorous growth, are more susceptible to cold injury. Also, termites may become a problem if sawdust is used.

For peaches and other fruits that often are damaged by frost during bloom, the orchard floor should be kept clean. Heavy weed growth, cover crops, and mulches add to the frost hazard by insulating the soil from the sun during the day and decreasing the radiation of heat from the soil at night.

Pruning and Training

Proper pruning and training of fruit trees is necessary to obtain maximum yields of high quality fruit throughout the life of the home orchard. Pruning is a general term which refers to selective removal of plant parts to obtain a desired growth response. For fruit trees, pruning usually refers to the removal of limbs, twigs, or shoots to increase production of high quality fruit and maintain tree vigor. It should be done annually as needed to regulate tree shape, size, vigor, and crop load. On the other hand, training should begin at planting and may consist of light pruning along with other practices such as spreading, bracing, bending and trellising limbs, shoots or canes.

Training Systems

Different training systems are used for different types of fruit plants. Pear and apple trees usually are trained to a modified central leader system, which results in an upright tree with spreading lateral branches. Peach, nectarine and plum trees are best trained to an open-center system, which results in a low, wide-spreading tree. Grape vines and trailing blackberries are trained to a systematic distribution of growth on a trellis.

Begin training at planting time

Untrained fruit trees usually do not develop growth habits suitable for production of high yields of quality fruit. Begin tree training at planting to minimize the need for later corrective training. Some shoot tissue should be removed at planting time since many roots are lost or damaged during transplanting. This helps the tree become established and begins the training process. Generally, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the top should be removed at planting. The manner in which this is done depends on the training system.

The modified central leader system

Trees trained to the modified central leader system usually have five to seven well-spaced scaffold limbs. These scaffold limbs are 6 to 10 inches apart on the central leader and radiate from the tree axis in different directions. The lowest branch should be at least 2 feet above the ground. This training system is relatively simple, produces a strong framework and is well suited for dooryard pears and apples.

Apple and pear trees are normally purchased as unbranded plants (whips) about 4 feet high. At planting they should be cut back to about 32 to 36 inches above the soil surface. This will stimulate development of lateral shoots, some of which will later become the leader and major scaffold limbs — the structural framework of the tree. Usually, two or three exceptionally vigorous lateral shoots will develop just below the heading back cut made on the young tree at planting. When these shoots are several inches long, select one to continue as the central leader and remove the other one or two competing shoots. Remove all shoots within 20 inches of the ground. Select four to six of the remaining lateral shoots which are evenly distributed radially around the trunk and vertically spaced 6 to 8 inches apart. These will form the major scaffold limbs. If branched trees are planted, it may be possible to use existing lateral branches as the major scaffold limbs. Remove all unwanted shoots at their points of origin.

The open-center system

The open-center training system is the method of choice for peaches, nectarines and plums. Open-center trees usually contain from three to four major scaffold limbs with no central leader. At planting, prune the dominant leader to a height of 24 to 30 inches above the soil surface. Larger trees usually have side branches. Remove all side branches that are less than 16 inches from the soil surface. Select three or four lateral branches which are distributed evenly around the tree trunk and spaced at least 4 inches apart vertically, and reduce their lengths to 3 to 4 inches. Remove all other branches and shoots at their point of origin. The major scaffold limbs will develop from the 3- to 4-inch stubs, or from new branches which develop from the trunk. The objective is to develop three to four primary framework (scaffold) limbs which form an open-centered tree canopy. Plum trees are pruned much like peach, although plums may have more usable branches and they may be pruned more lightly than peach.

Training other fruit trees

In addition to the general rules for training (see page 11), training of other fruit trees includes removal of the upper third of a pecan or persimmon tree at planting. The young fig plant should be headed back to about half its height. Cut back nursery grape plants to two buds on the most vigorous cane, and remove all other canes. Do not permit blueberries to fruit the first season. Prune or remove the fruiting blueberry buds at the end of the shoots at planting or before flowering.

Pruning in Early or Prebearing Years

The modified central leader system

During late winter or early spring following the first growing season, continue selecting scaffold limbs. Remove any shoots originating from the main trunk which are not needed for scaffold limb development. Cut back existing scaffold limbs slightly to encourage branching and spur development. The central leader should be cut back about 20 inches above the highest scaffold branch to encourage development of more scaffold limbs and maintain dominance of the central leader. In subsequent years, after five to seven properly positioned scaffold limbs have been developed, continue to remove shoots which compete with the central leader, and cut back scaffold limbs slightly to encourage branching and spur development. The central leader should be cut back sufficiently each year for the first 3 years to stimulate its regrowth and keep it dominant over scaffold limbs.

The open-center system

During late winter or early spring, following the first growing season, complete the selection of the three to four major scaffold limbs. Other shoots originating from the trunk should be removed. The major scaffold limbs should be cut back to 24 to 36 inches from the trunk to stimulate lateral shoot development. The following year's winter pruning should consist of cutting back the later shoots, which developed on scaffold limbs during the previous growing season, in order to stimulate additional branching.

Pruning during later years

Mature apple and pear trees should not be pruned severely. Moderate annual pruning is preferred to heavy pruning every 3 or 4 years. Heavy pruning causes less flowering and excessive vegetative growth which can promote fire blight.

Peaches, nectarines and plums should be pruned annually. Remove crossing branches and those that are growing into the center of the trees. Cut back vigorous shoots to outward growing branches or buds to check upward development. Remove root suckers and exceptionally vigorous upright shoots, known as water sprouts, which often develop in the center of the trees. Thin out some of the smaller branches to reduce crowding. It is best to prune peaches after the coldest part of the winter passes, but before flowering. During the growing season, rub off shoots which develop on the trunk and on scaffold limbs within 2 feet of the trunk.

Mature pecan and persimmon trees require little pruning. It may be necessary to lift low branches to permit cultivation and to remove damaged branches.

Pruning of the fig depends on the cultivar and condition of the plants. In the South, most figs are grown as bushes. Generally, it is only necessary to head back the branches to keep the plant within bounds, thin out weak growth and remove dead wood.

Proper pruning of bunch grapes provides an adequate amount of 1-year-old wood each year, and prevents accumulation of unproductive wood. Vary the amount of cane pruning according to the vigor of the vine and its capacity to carry a crop. More buds left on a vine will result in more berries per plant. The size and quality of fruit, and vigor of the vine will definitely decrease if more than the optimum number of buds is left. In the single-trunk four-cane Kniffin system of training, string a top wire (No. 9) 4½ to 5 feet high and a lower wire 18 inches lower along the row. Retain and tie only four canes per vine, one to the right and one to the left of the trunk on each wire. Remove all other canes, except for a few which should be cut back to spurs containing two to three buds on the trunk as renewal canes for the next year.

Annual pruning of muscadine grapes involves cutting back all shoots to 4 to 6 inch spurs, leaving one to three buds per spur spaced 4 to 6 inches apart on permanent arms which have been established to the right and left of the trunk on a two-wire trellis.

Grapevines often bleed from pruning cuts. This harmless loss of sap (mostly water) usually stops completely when leaves appear.

The basic objectives of pruning blueberries are to promote the growth of strong new wood, control plant size, and to maintain good fruit production. If too little pruning is done, the plants become crowded with weak, twiggy growth and fail to develop strong new wood for future production. Severe pruning produces fewer but larger berries and more new wood. Experience is the best guide on how much to prune. The best time to prune is during the winter. However, blueberries can be pruned immediately after fruit harvest. Pruning established plants requires cutting out or cutting back old canes that have little strong new wood and eliminating the twiggy growth in the top and outer areas of the bushes.

Trailing blackberries (dewberries) are trained on a wire trellis. Distribute canes on the trellis by tying and by lifting and drooping canes over the wires. Remove all old canes soon after harvest. The semi-erect type of blackberry does not require trellising, but all old canes should be removed after harvest. Shorten branches sufficiently to prevent excessive drooping and thus avoid production of a high proportion of the crop near the ground. For more information on pruning fruit trees, see Fla. Coop. Ext. Serv. Fact Sheet HS82,

Fruit Maturity and Harvesting

Most tree, bush, and vine fruits are soft when mature and require careful harvesting and handling. The fruits ripen over a period of time and require periodic harvesting to obtain full quality, avoid fruit drop, prevent the build-up of insects and diseases, and reduce bird damage.

Peach and nectarines. Peaches and nectarines are harvested commercially just prior to softening on the tree. Unlike pears, they do not ripen well in storage. Fruit color is not a good indicator of peach maturity since some cultivars are highly colored well before they are mature. For home use, much higher quality is obtained when fruit are harvested tree ripe (when the fruit begins to soften slightly).

Plum. Most cultivars of plums can be harvested before full tree ripening or fruit softening occurs and still ripen. The fruit may be harvested when the ground color turns from green to yellowish-green. Plums picked in this fashion may be kept under refrigeration for several weeks where they ripen slowly. However, highlighly-colored red or purple plums with little visible ground color also may be harvested when fully ripe, just as softening begins.

Pear. The hard pears grown in the South are harvested when they reach full size and ground color begins to yellow. If pear varieties which soften are harvested firm and stored at room temperature, the fruit ripens more quickly and evenly. When left on the tree to full maturity, soft-flesh pears break down internally and are of poor quality.

Persimmon. The Oriental or Japanese persimmon usually turns from a yellowish-orange to an orange color with a reddish tinge when soft mature. The fruit should be picked when fully mature and allowed to soften in storage. Fuyu may be used in salads while still firm because it is non-astringent, but Tanenashi and other astringent cultivars should not be eaten until soft.

Fig. For fresh use, pick figs as soon as they ripen. For preserving, pick before they have fully ripened. This reduces loss from fruit splitting and souring, and the fruit holds together better when cooked. Leave stem attached to the fruit.

Pecan. Pecans are harvested when mature, usually between October and January. Nuts are mature when the shuck splits. Pecans may be threshed with bamboo poles to remove the nuts rather than letting them fall naturally. Threshing as soon as most of the shucks have split reduces loss from squirrels and crows. Freshly harvested nuts should be placed in dry storage for several weeks before eating. Shelled nuts may be stored in polyethylene bags either in the refrigerator or freezer.

Chestnut. Chestnuts are fully mature when the bur splits. It is necessary to gather the nuts frequently and refrigerate immediately to maintain quality. They are subject to decay and also will dry out without refrigeration.

Blueberry. The harvest period for blueberries usually begins in April and continues through July, depending on the cultivar. The fruit of most cultivars begins to turn blue about 3 to 5 days before the fruit is of best eating quality.

Blackberry. Harvest extends from mid-March to early May, depending on the cultivar and year. Blackberries are dark when ripe. Berries that are reddish in color should be left for later picking unless they are to be used for jelly, in which case a portion of slightly immature fruit is desirable.

Grape. Mature muscadine grapes are bronze or black depending on the cultivar and are usually harvested in August and September. Bunch grapes are normally green, red, or reddish black when ripe, depending on the cultivars. They are harvested in July and August. Harvested fruit lose moisture, aroma, and general quality rapidly, and thus should be refrigerated and used as soon as possible.

Apple. Apples ripen satisfactorily on the tree. They should be picked when they have reached optimum size and color but before they soften. Immature fruit will not ripen with satisfactory quality in a refrigerator. Fruit will store in refrigeration satisfactorily for 6 to 8 weeks.

Tables

Table 1. 

Suggested plant spacings.

Crop	Spacing in Feet*
Blueberries**	6 x 12
Chestnuts	20 x 20
Figs	10 x 12
Muscadine Grapes	15 x 10
Bunch Grapes	10 x 10
Persimmons (Japanese)	10 x 15
Pears	20 x 20
Peaches and Nectarines	15 x 20
Plums	10 x 20
Pecans	60 x 60
Blackberries	5 x 12
Apples	15 x 20
*The first number refers to the space between trees within a row, and the second number refers to the space between rows. So 6 x 12 means 6 feet between the trees in a row and 12 feet between rows. ** Southern highbush blueberries can be spaced 3 to 4 feet apart in the row.

Table 2. 

Persimmon cultivars for North Florida.

Cultivar	Astringency*	Skin Color	Pollinator**
Fuyu	NA	red	no
Hachiya	A	red	yes
Hanafuyu	NA	reddish-orange	no
Izu	NA	orange-red	no
Matsumoto Wase Fuyu	NA	reddish-orange	no
O'Gosho	NA	orange-red	no
Jiro	NA	orange-red	no
Motsumoto	NA	orange-red	no
Saijo	A	reddish-orange	no
Tamopan	A	reddish-orange	no
Tanenashi	A	yellowish-orange	no
Gailey***	A	red	no
*A — Astringent, NA — Nonastringent**Most persimmons set heavier crops with cross pollination.***Gailey is a pollinator. If it is used there will tend to be some seed in all cultivars in the planting.

Table 3. 

Peaches and nectarines grown in north Florida.

Cultivar	Chill Unitsz	Normal Ripening Date	Fruit Size	Stone Freeness	Flavory
Peach
Flordadawn	300	late April, early May	small	semi-cling	9
Flordaking	350	early May	med-large	semi-cling	7
Gulfking	350	mid-May	med-large	semi-cling	9
Flordacrest	375	mid-May	medium	semi-cling	8
Gulfprince	400	early June	med-large	semi-cling	9
Gulfcrimson	400	late-May	med-large	semi-cling	8
Gulfcrest	525	mid-May	medium	semi-cling	9
Nectarine
Sundollar	350	early May	medium	semi-cling	8
Suncoast	375	early to mid-May	medium	semi-cling	9
z Chill units refer to the number of hours of exposure to temperatures below 45°F to break dormancy andinitiate spring growth. y 10 = most desirable; 1 = least desirable

Table 4. 

Peaches and nectarines grown in Central and Northcentral Florida.

Cultivar	Chill Units(z)	Normal Ripening Date	Fruit Size	Stone Freeness	Flavor(y)
Peach
Flordaprince	150	mid-April	small	semi-cling	8
UFBeauty	200	late-April	medium	semi-cling	9
UF Gold	200	late April	medium	semi-cling	9
UFSharp	325	late-May	large	semi-cling	9
Flordaglo	150	late April	medium	semi-cling	8
TropicBeauty	150	early May	med-large	semi-cling	9
TropicSnow	200	early May	med-large	semi-free	10
UF 2000	300	late May	med-large	semi-cling	9
UFOx	250	mid-May	med-small	semifree	9
Nectarine
Sunraycer	250	mid-May	large	semi-cling	9
Sunbest	250	mid-May	large	semi-cling	9
Sunmist	275	mid-May	medium	semi-cling	10
UF Queen	250	mid-May	med-large	semi-cling	9
z Chill units refer to the number of hours of exposure to temperatures below 45°F to break dormancy and initiate spring growth. y 10 = most desirable; 1 = least desirable x Peento, or saucer-shaped peach

Table 5. 

Plums grown in Central and North Florida.

Cultivar	Period of Ripening	Fruit Size	Peel Color	Flesh Color	Requires Pollinator
Gulfruby	early	medium	red	yellow	yes
Gulfbeauty	early	small	red	yellow	yes
Gulfblaze	early	medium	red	yellow	yes
Gulfrose	early	medium	red	purple	yes

Table 6. 

Characteristics of pear cultivars.

Cultivar	Fruit Size	Peel Color	Flesh Texture	Soften in Storage
Pineapple	medium	yellowish-green	coarse	no
Baldwin	medium	yellowish-green	fine	yes
Tenn	small	red blush	semi-fine	yes
Flordahome	medium	yellowish-green	fine	yes
Ayers	large	red blush	semi-fine	yes
Hood	large	yellowish-green	fine	yes
Orient	very large	yellowish-green	coarse	no
Carnes	medium	green	semi-coarse	no

Table 7. 

Characteristics of pecan cultivar.

Cultivarz	Nuts Per Lb.	Quality	Crackingy
Elliott	65 - 70	excellent	5
Stuart	45 - 50	good	4
Curtis	65 - 70	good	1
Moreland	45 - 50	excellent	1
zAll cultivars listed are relatively resistant to scab. Do not plant varieties that scab severely. yRefers to the ease of cracking the shell, with 1 being the easiest and 5 being hardest to crack.

Table 8. 

Blueberry cultivars grown in Florida.

Cultivar	Pollinationz	Mean date of first harvesty	Chilling unitsx
Southern highbushw
Emerald	1	April 20	200
Jewel	1	April 20	200
Windsor	1	May 1	225
Springhigh	1	May 1	225
Sharpblue	1	May 1	150
Gulf Coast	1	May 1	200
Rabbiteyev
Chaucer	2	May 20	400
Climax	2	May 25	450
Woodard	2	June 3	400
Brightwell	3	June 3	400
Tifblue	3	June 15	550
Powderblue	3	June 15	550
z Plant two or more cultivars together with same number. y First 20% of crop ripe in Gainesville, FL. x Refer to page 2. w Suggested for south of Marion county. Flowers early and may require cold protection. v Suggested for Marion county and north.

Table 9. 

Characteristics of grape cultivars.

Type	Cultivar	Color	Self-fruitful*	Requires Rootstock
Bunch	Lake Emerald	green	yes	no
	Blue Lake	blue	yes	no
	Stover	golden	yes	yes
	Conquistador	blue	yes	yes
	Daytona	red	yes	no
	Suwannee	golden	yes	no
Muscadine	Fry	bronze	no*	no
	Carlos	bronze	yes	no
	Welder	bronze	yes	no
	Tara	bronze	yes	no
	Summit	bronze	no	no
	Sweet Jenny	bronze	no	no
	Pam	bronze	no	no
	Granny Val	bronze	yes	no
	Doreen	bronze	yes	no
	Noble	black	yes	no
	Southern Home	black	yes	no
	Nesbitt	black	yes	no
	Black Beauty	black	no	no
	Black Fry	black	no	no
	Polyanna	black	yes	no
	Supreme	black	no	no
* When self-unfruitful are being planted, it is necessary to include at least one self-fruitful cultivar for pollination.

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Millie Ferrer-Chancy, Interim Dean.

Pruning and Training Deciduous Fruit Trees for the Dooryard1

Proper pruning and training of fruit trees is necessary to obtain maximum yields of high quality fruit throughout the life of the home orchard. Pruning is a general term which refers to selective removal of plant parts to obtain a desired growth or developmental response. However, for fruit trees, pruning usually refers to mature, bearing trees and is done primarily to increase production of high quality fruit and limit tree height and spread. Pruning is necessary to maintain tree health, vigor and productivity throughout the life of the home orchard.

Training should begin at planting and may consist of light pruning along with various other horticultural practices such as spreading, bracing or bending of limbs and shoots. The primary objective of training is to develop a strong tree framework of optimum size and shape.

The many benefits of pruning and training may be summarized as follows:

• Aid in the establishment of newly planted trees.

• Promote development of a strong framework.

• Enhance early productivity.

• Aid in the development and maintenance of desirable tree size and shape.

• Increase fruit size and enhance fruit quality.

• Promote flower bud development throughout the tree canopy.

• Increase tree vigor and promote development of new fruiting wood needed to maintain productivity.

• Reduce the tendency for biennial bearing.

• Reduce incidence and spread of certain diseases.

• Facilitate other horticultural practices, such as spraying, thinning and harvesting.

Pruning

When to Prune

Almost all pruning of deciduous fruit trees may be classified as dormant pruning and should be done during the late winter or very early spring (before bloom). Since pruning may reduce cold hardiness, it is important to delay pruning until the likelihood of extreme cold passes. Some summer pruning or training may be necessary, especially for young trees. However, summer training should be limited to snipping, pinching, or rubbing away young, succulent growth. Extensive pruning should not be done during the growing season except to remove diseased or damaged wood.

Tree Response to Pruning

Pruning removes food reserves and reduces leaf surface area, thereby decreasing the tree's ability to harvest sunlight. Hence, pruning reduces tree size, and is considered a dwarfing process.

Although dwarfing to the whole tree, pruning may stimulate shoot growth near the pruning cut and may be considered locally invigorating. Therefore, pruning may be used not only to limit tree size, but also to modify the level and distribution of vigor within the tree canopy.

Types of Pruning Cuts

Three basic types of pruning cuts are use for pruning and training trees in the home orchard:

1. Heading-back cuts which consist of cutting a terminal shoot back to a bud on 1-year-old wood (Figure 1).

2. Thinning-out cuts which are the complete removal of shoots or limbs at their points of origin (Figure 2).

3. Cutting-back to lateral shoots, which consist of cutting terminals back to existing lateral shoots or branches (Figure 3).

Heading-back cuts stimulate growth from one to several buds located just below the cut and are used to stiffen branches and promote growth of lateral shoots. Heading-back cuts encourage development of many lateral shoots just below the pruning cut. Heading-back cuts should be made about ¼" inch above the uppermost bud from which growth is desired.

Thinning-out cuts are used to reduce crowding from adjacent limbs, remove weak, nonproductive or diseased wood, and limit tree size. The 3-saw cut is a type of thinning cut used to remove large limbs. The first cut is made on lower side half way through the limb. The second cut is made from the upper side slightly farther out ont he limb. The limb will break under its own weight while making this cut. The remaining stub is remvoed by making a third cut close to the trunk.

Cutting-back to lateral shoots can be used to direct growth, stiffen branches, reduce crowding, remove diseased or nonproductive wood, limit tree volume and regulate vigor. Cutting back to a lateral shoot is locally invigorating but does not stimulate the development of new lateral shoots below the cut.

Smooth, clean pruning cuts heal quickly and minimize the likelihood of invasion from pathogens. Before making any cuts, become familiar with the various types of pruning equipment, their uses and limitations, and the basics of equipment maintenance. Be sure your equipment is properly adjusted and in good working order.

Training Systems

Begin Training at Pruning

Untrained fruit trees usually do not develop growth habits suitable for production of high yields of quality fruit. Tree training should begin at planting to minimize the need for later corrective training which may delay fruit production in young trees. Some shoot tissue should be removed at planting since many roots are lost or damaged while digging and transporting trees. This helps the tree become established an begins the training process. Generally about 1/3 to ½ of the top should be removed at planting. The manner in which this is done depends on the training system selected.

The Modified Central Leader System

Trees trained to the modified central leader system usually have five to seven well-spaced scaffold limbs 6" to 10" apart on the central leader radiating from the tree axis in different directions (Figure 4). This training system is relatively simple, produces a strong tree framework and is well suited for dooryard apple trees grown in Florida.

If possible, plant 1-year-old unbranched trees which are about 4 to 6 feet tall with well-developed root systems. At planting, head-back the central leader to about 32 to 36" above the soil surface. This will stimulate development of lateral shoots, some of which will later become the leader and major scaffold limbs, the structural framework of the tree. Typically, two or three exceptionally vigorous lateral shoots will develop just below the heading-back cut. When these shoots are 8" to 10" long, select one to continue developing the leader and remove the other one or two competing lateral shoots. Remove all lateral shoots within 20" of the soil surface. Select four to six of the remaining shoots with wide crotch angles, preferably greater than 45°, evenly distributed radially around the trunk and vertically spaced 6" to 8" apart, to form the scaffold limbs. In some cases, only two or three lateral shoots can be selected the first year with additional shoots being selected higher on the leader the following growing season.

When planting branched trees, select scaffold limbs from existing lateral shoots which have wide crotch angles and are properly positioned along the leader as outlined above. Remove all unwanted lateral shoots at their point of origin. Head back the remaining lateral shoots by about ½ to 1/3 of their length. The top lateral, which will form the leader, should be headed back but left longer than other lateral shoots. If small unbranched trees are planted, head back and allow only one vigorous lateral shoot to form the leader. Remove other lateral shoots as they develop. Wait until the second growing season to begin developing scaffold limbs.

Limbs with wide crotch angles are stronger and can support more fruit than upright limbs with narrow crotch angles. As young shoots develop, wooden clothes pins or round wooden toothpicks can be used to spread young shoots and develop wide crotch angles (Figure 5). If clothes pins are used, they should be removed about the time the tissue hardens (early to mid-July) to prevent girdling of young shoots. As shoots continue to develop, additional limb spreading is desirable.

Spreaders of varying lengths can be fashioned from large, stiff wire or pieces of wood with sharpened nails extending from each end (Figure 6).

During late winter or early spring following the first growing season, continue selecting and developing scaffold limbs. Remove any shoots originating from the main trunk which are not neededfor scaffold development. Head back existing scaffolds slightly to encourage branching and spur development. Shoot and limb spreading which encourages wide crotch angles will also help maintain leader dominance and promote fruiting at an earlier age. If more scaffold limbs are needed, head back the central leader about 20" above the highest permanent lateral shoot. This will stimulate the development of lateral shoots from which additional scaffold limbs will develop. Continue to select laterals for scaffold limb development as described previously. After five to seven properly positioned scaffold limbs have been selected, continue to remove shoots which compete with the central leader during each dormant pruning.

Once five to seven scaffold limbs have developed, dormant pruning consists primarily of selective removal of crowded or crossing branches, water sprouts, root suckers, and other growth which interferes with light penetration and air movement in the tree canopy. Sometimes it is necessary to remove some of the weaker growth from the interior of the tree.

Some heading-back cuts to scaffold limbs are necessary during the first few years to encourage branching and fruit spur development. As trees begin to bear fruit, use thinning cuts and heading-back cuts to side laterals more than straight heading-back cuts. Tree height may be controlled by cutting back the central leader to the uppermost lateral shoot. Always remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood.

The Open-Center System

The open-center, or vase-shaped, training system is the method of choice for most stone fruit trees grown in the southeastern United States. Peaches, nectarines, plums and apricots are commonly trained to this system. Open-center trees usually contain from three to five major scaffold limbs with no central leader (Figure 7).

At planting, prune the central leader of young trees to a height of 30 to 36" above the soil line. This helps reestablish the root:shoot ratio and encourages the development of lateral shoots from which primary scaffold limbs can be selected.

Larger trees usually have several side branches. Remove all side branches less than 18" from the soil line. Head back the remaining side branches to 2 to 4" stubs containing several buds each.

During the first summer, select three to four lateral shoots evenly distributed around the tree trunk and spaced at least 4 inches apart vertically with crotch angles as near 45° from the tree trunk as possible. Remove root suckers, water sprouts and unwanted lateral shoots as they develop. Summer pruning should consist of removing young succulent growth by pinching or rubbing young shoots as they develop. Large pruning cuts should not be made during the summer. The key to successful summer pruning is to direct growth into the desired portions of the tree while removing as little leaf surface area as possible.

Selection of primary scaffold limbs should be completed during the following dormant season. The remaining scaffold limbs should be headed back 24 to 36" from the trunk to stimulate lateral shoot development. Head back to an outward-growing bud to encourage a spreading habit of growth. Remove vigorous upright growth, downward-growing shoots, and other growth which competes with scaffold limbs.

During the second growing season continue to direct growth into scaffold limbs by removing suckers and water sprouts as they develop.

During the second dormant season select secondary scaffolds 18 to 24" from the origin of the primary scaffold. Head back secondary scaffolds to a length of about 24 to 36". Remove unwanted lateral shoots and vigorous upright shoots growing from the trunk and center of the tree.

During the third and subsequent growing seasons, selective removal of young succulent shoots may be required to keep the center of the tree open. As always, remove suckers and water sprouts as they develop.

Dormant pruning the third year should consist of selective thinning of crowded shoots and heading cuts to outside buds or laterals. Strive for a symmetrical, spreading habit of growth. In subsequent years as trees mature and come into bearing, prune selectively to stiffen scaffolds, adjust crop load and encourage a symmetrical, spreading habit of growth of manageable size with an open center. Fruiting wood should be thinned annually to reduce crowding and stimulate the production of new wood which bears next year's crop. Always remove damaged or diseased wood.

Pruning Neglected Trees

Older trees which have been neglected for a number of years often develop a dense, bushy habit of growth. Such trees often become slow growing and produce poor quality fruit. The primary objective is to open up the interior of the tree to light. This will help with flower and fruit development and improve insect and disease control. Remove vigorous, upright shoots from the tree interior and root suckers from the base of the trunk if present. Select several scaffold limbs with wide crotch angles and remove the remaining limbs with thinning cuts. Shorten the scaffold limbs by about ¼ their length using heading cuts and by cutting back to lateral shoots. Remove any diseased or damaged wood.

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Millie Ferrer-Chancy, Interim Dean.

Blueberry Gardener's Guide1

J.G. Williamson, P.M. Lyrene, and J.W. Olmstead2

The purpose of this publication is to provide home gardeners with basic information on growing blueberries in Florida. Commercial growers and those interested in more detailed information on growing blueberries in Florida are encouraged to visit the UF/IFAS Florida Cooperative Extension publications website at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_blueberry.

Florida's winter season is short and mild with intermittent periods of warm temperatures. Most deciduous fruit cultivars have high chilling requirements and do not grow well in Florida. To produce optimum fruit yield and quality, most deciduous fruit cultivars require more exposure to temperatures below 45ºF during the winter than they are likely to experience in Florida. With insufficient chilling, plants do not flower and leaf out satisfactorily during the spring. Growth can be weak and erratic. However, low-chill cultivars of some deciduous fruits, including blueberry, have been developed by plant breeders at the University of Florida and elsewhere. These cultivars were developed specifically for regions with mild winter temperatures such as in north and central Florida.

Two types of blueberries grow well in Florida, rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum) and southern highbush (interspecific hybrids of V. darrowii, V. virgatum, and V. corymbosum). However, only the low-chill cultivars of each are adapted to Florida. Generally, rabbiteye blueberries grow well in areas of Florida that have winters as cold as or colder than winters in Ocala. The southern highbush cultivars that are commonly grown in Florida are well adapted to areas south of Ocala and north of Sebring, although they will grow reasonably well in Alachua County. The southern limits of southern highbush adaptation in Florida have not been fully determined.

Site Requirements

Both rabbiteye and southern highbush thrive on acidic soils, which contain more organic matter than is usually found in Florida soils. If mulched, rabbiteye blueberries will usually grow satisfactorily on soils with 1% organic matter, but they perform better with soils that have 2–3% organic matter. Southern highbush cultivars are not recommended for soils with less than 3% organic matter unless additional organic matter is added as a soil amendment and mulches are added to the site. Peat moss or pine bark is commonly used to increase soil organic matter in blueberry plantings. Peat moss can be incorporated into the soil at or prior to planting. Pine bark can also be mixed into the soil, or when applied as mulch it will eventually decompose and add to the soil organic matter content. In areas where blueberry plants have been heavily mulched for several years, it is not uncommon to observe most of the fibrous roots growing in the decomposed litter above the natural soil.

Blueberries require a soil pH of 4.0–5.5. At higher soil pH values, tissue levels of microelements such as iron and zinc become deficient. Deficiency symptoms develop on new growth, and plants lose vigor. Soil can be acidified by thoroughly mixing a small amount of granulated sulfur into the soil several months before planting. Many fertilizers are acid-forming and will gradually lower the soil pH. A soil test is needed to measure the soil pH and can help to determine whether or not acidification of the soil is necessary. Your local county Extension office can assist you with proper soil testing procedures.

Blueberries require a well-drained soil profile of at least 18 inches in depth. Blueberries should be planted on raised beds if water drainage is poor (within 18 inches of the soil surface for prolonged periods during the rainy season). If blueberry roots are exposed to water-saturated soil for more than a few days, damage from Phytophthora root rot may become severe. Generally, blueberries will grow well where azaleas, camellias, and other "acid-loving" plants are proven performers.

Set plants in a sunny area (at least 4–5 hours of full sun per day) away from the roots of trees except pines and at least 20 feet away from any building foundation. A mature rabbiteye blueberry plant can reach 12–15 feet in height with canes sprouting over an area of 8–10 feet in diameter. Southern highbush plants tend to be less vigorous and smaller than rabbiteyes. Plant size can be controlled to some degree by pruning. However, severe pruning will reduce yields the following spring. Allow at least a 7' x 7' area for rabbiteyes and a 4' x 4' area for southern highbush. Plants may be set 3 feet apart (southern highbush) or 5 feet apart (rabbiteye) for a hedgerow effect.

Planting and Establishment

The best time to plant blueberries is from mid-December to mid-February. Bare-root or container-grown plants can be used. It is best to use plants about 2 feet tall with well-developed root systems that are not pot-bound. Keep the roots of bare-rooted plants moist but not overly wet prior to and during planting. The root balls of potted plants should be broken up slightly and the roots of bare-rooted plants should be spread out evenly in the planting hole. In most situations, dooryard blueberry plants benefit from the incorporation of 1/4–1/2 cubic foot of acid sphagnum peat moss into the planting hole. Dig the hole large enough to accommodate the roots and peat moss. The plants should be set at the same height as when they were growing in the nursery. If blueberries are planted on raised beds, flatten the bed in the vicinity of the plants and set the plant in a slight depression so that irrigation and rain water will not flow away from the plant.

Pine bark mulch aids in the establishment of young blueberry plants. Either a layer of pine bark 3 inches deep extending about 2 feet out from the plants in all directions or a pine bark strip about 4 feet wide extending down the row will provide a good substrate for surface feeder roots. Mulch also moderates soil temperatures, aids in weed control, provides protection from mechanical injury, and adds organic matter to the soil. Weed control is extremely important for young plant establishment because blueberries are shallow-rooted plants that compete poorly with weeds for water and nutrients.

Blueberries should be pruned at the time of planting. If plants have a well-developed root system and irrigation is used, pruning should not be severe. Select the tallest, strongest cane and leave it unpruned. Remove the weak, "twiggy" growth at the base of the plant. If the plant has a large top compared with the root system, remove about one-third of the top by selectively pruning the least vigorous growth and cutting back the tops of vigorous canes by several inches. During the first growing season, remove all flowers before fruit set occurs. This will prevent fruiting during the first year and promote strong vegetative growth and good plant establishment. This is especially important with some southern highbush cultivars that flower heavily as young plants.

Cultivars

Aside from site selection, choosing the proper blueberry cultivars may be the most important decision a dooryard blueberry grower can make. Most blueberry cultivars grown in Florida are self-unfruitful; they require cross-pollination from another cultivar of the same type (southern highbush with southern highbush and rabbiteye with rabbiteye). Another requirement for good fruit set is that pollen vectors (usually bees) are present and working the flowers during bloom. With good pollination, berry yields of 2–5 pounds per plant may be expected by the third or fourth year. Some of the major blueberry cultivars commonly grown in Florida are described below.

Southern Highbush Cultivars. Southern highbush blueberries grown in peninsular Florida are the earliest blueberries to ripen in North America. These cultivars are generally considered more difficult to grow than rabbiteye types. Very early flowering makes southern highbush cultivars quite susceptible to late winter/early spring freezes and therefore not suited for extreme north and northwest Florida. Moreover, southern highbush blueberries are less forgiving of soil requirements and are generally more susceptible to some diseases such as Phytophthora root rot. However, in central or south Florida, southern highbush cultivars are preferred over rabbiteyes. The following is a list of the more common southern highbush cultivars available in Florida. All of the southern highbush cultivars described below are patented releases from the University of Florida breeding program. For a current listing of nurseries licensed to propagate and sell each of these cultivars, contact the Florida Foundation Seed Producers at (352) 392-9446 or look online at http://ffsp.net.

'Emerald' (Figure 1) was released by the University of Florida in 1999 and is currently one of the more widely planted cultivars in north and central Florida. It appears to be adapted from Gainesville to Sebring. ‘Emerald’ combines a vigorous, spreading bush with high yield potential, early ripening, and large, high-quality berries. ‘Emerald’ flowers open uniformly, and it produces abundant leaves even after mild winters in Gainesville. Because the plant is highly vigorous when planted on suitable soils, ‘Emerald’ is capable of carrying heavy crops. ‘Emerald’ normally reaches full bloom in Gainesville around February 15, thus flowers and fruit require protection from freezes in February and March. In Gainesville, first harvest occurs a few days earlier for ‘Emerald’ than for ‘Sharpblue’ and ‘Star’. About 80% of the fruit of ‘Emerald’ is normally ripe between April 15 and May 10 in Gainesville.

Figure 1.  'Emerald' blueberry.Credits: James W. Olmstead, UF/IFAS

'Jewel' (Figure 2) was released by the University of Florida breeding program in 1999 and has a moderately low chilling requirement, very early ripening, and high berry quality. ‘Jewel’ appears to be adapted to the region of Florida from Gainesville to Sebring. In Gainesville, ‘Jewel’ typically flowers about a week before ‘Star’ and ripens at approximately the same time as ‘Star’. The average harvest date of ‘Jewel’ in Gainesville is April 12, and harvest is normally finished by May 10. ‘Jewel’ produces a large number of flower buds but leafs well in the spring. Its vigor is high, which allows it to carry a large crop of high-quality berries. Its berry quality is excellent but tends to be tart until fully ripe. Its berry size is medium to large, its firmness is good to excellent, and its stem scars are dry and considered to be excellent. ‘Jewel’ is moderately susceptible to Phytophthora root rot and highly susceptible to rust leaf spot disease, which may require fungicide sprays to prevent early fall defoliation.

Figure 2.  'Jewel' blueberry.Credits: James W. Olmstead, UF/IFAS

'Star' (Figure 3) was released by the University of Florida in 1995. ‘Star’ has medium vigor but its survival in the field has been good. ‘Star’ has a higher chilling requirement than ‘Emerald’ or ‘Jewel’ and appears to be best adapted to north Florida and southeast Georgia. ‘Star’ has not performed well south of Ocala where it shows symptoms of inadequate winter chilling, including few flowers and weak vegetative growth. The average date for ‘Star’ to reach 50% bloom in Alachua County is February 23. The first half of the crop is normally ripe by April 26. ‘Star’ leafs out well in Gainesville and southeastern Georgia. ‘Star’ has a very short bloom to ripe interval and has a relatively compressed harvest period of about 3 weeks. Its berries are excellent in size and firmness, and its stem scar is minimal.

Figure 3.  'Star' blueberry.Credits: Jeffrey G. Williamson, UF/IFAS

'Windsor' (Figure 4) was released from the University of Florida breeding program in 2001 and is vigorous, with stout stems and a semi-spreading growth habit. ‘Windsor’ appears to be best adapted to north-central Florida but has been grown successfully as far south as Hardee County. The average date of 50% bloom in Alachua County is February 21, usually several days after ‘Emerald’ and about 3 days before ‘Star’. ‘Windsor’ leafs out strongly as it begins to flower, and this strong vegetative growth enables it to support a large crop. In Alachua County, fruit usually begin to ripen in early to mid-April, and 50% of the berries are normally ripe by April 24. ‘Windsor’ berries are very large. Berries from the first half of the harvest average about 2.4 grams on young vigorous plants. The berries are about the same color as those of ‘Star’. It has good firmness and excellent flavor. ‘Windsor’ has a deep picking scar, which complicates packing and reduces commercial postharvest life, but this is generally not a problem for home gardeners.

Figure 4.  'Windsor' blueberry.Credits: Jeffrey G. Williamson, UF/IFAS

‘Springhigh’ (Figure 5) is a vigorous, upright cultivar that has exceptionally good survival in the field. ‘Springhigh’ appears to be adapted to north-central and central Florida. ‘Springhigh’ ripens about 5–10 days earlier than the standard mid-season cultivars (‘Star’, ‘Windsor’, ‘Emerald’, and ‘Jewel’). The berries are very large and have good to excellent flavor. Berries of ‘Springhigh’ have less waxy bloom on their surfaces, making them darker than most other cultivars. They have only medium-good scars with a tendency for some tearing of the berry skin around the picking scar during harvest. Also, they have only medium firmness, which sometimes presents problems during commercial packing and shipping, but should not be an issue for home gardeners. The berries are very attractive to flower thrips, which in many years are abundant during the weeks when ‘Springhigh’ is ripening. If thrips populations are not kept very low when ‘Springhigh’ is beginning to ripen, their damage will soften the berries and reduce berry postharvest storage life.

Figure 5.  'Springhigh' blueberry.Credits: James W. Olmstead, UF/IFAS

‘Sweetcrisp’ (Figure 6) is a vigorous plant with good field survival and a spreading growth habit. It flowers about the same time as ‘Jewel’ (which is later than ‘Emerald’ and earlier than ‘Star’ or ‘Windsor’) and ripens at about the same time as ‘Jewel’ and ‘Emerald’. The berry is sweet with a crisp crunch at the first bite. It is very firm and has exceptional postharvest life. The berries are smaller than those of ‘Emerald’, ‘Star’, and ‘Windsor’, and are variable in size, depending on the diameter of the twigs bearing the flowers. Flower bud number and berry yield in Gainesville are below average (less than most other cultivars), and it appears to be best adapted to north Florida and south Georgia. Because of its exceptional berry quality and postharvest storage, ‘Sweetcrisp’ has high potential for a garden cultivar in north Florida.

Figure 6.  ‘Sweetcrisp’ blueberry.Credits: James W. Olstead, UF/IFAS

‘Farthing’ (Figure 7) is a vigorous plant with a dense, compact canopy. The leaves tend to be healthy and relatively free of leaf spot diseases. The berries are large and firm, and they have a good picking scar but tend to be dark in color because of low surface wax content. ‘Farthing’ produces numerous flower buds, and dormant pruning may be required to prevent over-fruiting. ‘Farthing’ flowers later than most Florida cultivars, but before ‘Star’ or ‘Windsor’. The berries on ‘Farthing’ generally ripen at about the same time as ‘Star’, but it produces significantly higher yields than ‘Star’. ‘Farthing’ has performed well in north-central Florida, but it is a new cultivar and its adaptive range has not been fully determined.

Figure 7.  ‘Farthing’ blueberry.Credits: Jeffrey G. Williamson, UF/IFAS

Rabbiteye cultivars. Rabbiteye cultivars, as a group, are easier to grow than southern highbush. They are more tolerant to drought and less susceptible to Phytophthora root rot. They flower later in the spring, making them less susceptible to late winter/early spring freezes. They require less organic matter and less mulching, and they are generally more vigorous. Rabbiteye fruit has a slightly tougher skin and slightly larger seed than southern highbush fruit. Fruit from rabbiteye cultivars usually stores better than southern highbush fruit. Rabbiteyes require cross-pollination from another rabbiteye cultivar. The harvest season for rabbiteye blueberries extends from May to July, depending on the cultivar. Rabbiteyes are best adapted to areas of Florida north of Ocala.

'Beckyblue', 'Bonita', and 'Climax' are three early-season rabbiteye cultivars that are widely grown in Florida. These cultivars usually ripen in late May and early June in Gainesville. Early-season rabbiteyes have not been as productive under Florida conditions as the mid- to late-season cultivars. However, they are useful in extending the rabbiteye harvest season. For best pollination, plant 'Climax' with either 'Beckyblue' or 'Bonita'. 'Austin' is a newer early-season rabbiteye cultivar that appears to grow well where 'Climax' is adapted and should cross-pollinate with other early-season rabbiteye cultivars.

Most of the mid- to late-season rabbiteye cultivars are more productive than the early-season rabbiteyes discussed above and are therefore better suited for home gardeners. 'Brightwell', 'Powderblue', 'Tifblue', and 'Woodard' have performed very well in north Florida and in the panhandle. These cultivars bloom later than the early-season rabbiteyes, and the flowers and young fruit are much less susceptible to late winter freezes. Other mid- to late-season rabbiteyes that can be grown in Florida but are less popular and may be harder to locate include 'Chaucer' and 'Bluegem'.

Fertilization

Blueberries respond best to frequent, light fertilization. They can be killed or damaged by over-fertilization. It is best to be conservative and gradually increase fertilizer rates as you gain experience with your soil type and the kinds of fertilizer you are using.

Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole. After planting, when the soil is well settled from irrigation or rainfall, give un-mulched plants 1 ounce per plant of 12-4-8 (N-P2O5-K2O) with 2% magnesium (Mg). Use ammoniacal nitrogen or nitrogen from urea or organic sources, rather than from nitrate sources. Chlorine levels should be as low as possible, preferably below 2%. A special formulation called "blueberry special" is available in Florida and meets these requirements. Another possibility is "camellia-azalea" fertilizers. Many of these fertilizers are suitable for blueberries, and they are usually readily available in small quantities for home gardeners. Spread fertilizer evenly over a circle 2 feet in diameter with the plant in the center. Repeat this procedure in April, June, August, and October. If plants are heavily mulched, use 1.5 ounces per plant per application rather than 1 ounce because some of the fertilizer will be unavailable for plant uptake. During the second year, use 2 ounces of 12-4-8 per plant per application and spread it evenly over a 3-foot diameter circle. In the third year and beyond, use 3 ounces of fertilizer per plant per application spread evenly over a 4-foot diameter circle, or broadcast in a continuous band 3–4 feet wide, centered on the plant row. These are general guidelines and should be adjusted based on plant performance. Slightly more fertilizer may be required if plants are heavily mulched. However, more often than not, cultivated blueberries suffer more from over-fertilization than from lack of fertilization.

Irrigation

Mature blueberry plants need about 40 inches of water annually. Most of this water is provided by rain. Water requirements for blueberry plants are low during the winter. During most years, the combination of rainfall and water stored in the soil should limit the need for irrigation on moist soils between December 1 and March 1. The most critical period for irrigation of blueberry plants in Florida is from early fruit set until the end of harvest. For most cultivars, this corresponds with a period of high water use by the plants but low rainfall, meaning best results will be achieved with supplemental irrigation. During March, mature blueberry plants will require about 0.6 inches of water per week (rainfall plus irrigation). As leaf canopies continue to develop, and air and soil temperatures continue to increase, 1.0–1.2 inches of water per week (rainfall plus irrigation) will be needed throughout the late spring and summer months. The frequency of irrigation depends on the weather, soil type, and type of blueberry (rabbiteye or southern highbush). Established rabbiteye blueberries in gardens will require irrigation only during prolonged dry periods. They are as drought tolerant as evergreen azaleas. Southern highbush blueberries planted on very sandy soils may require three or more irrigations per week during dry periods. Most water from deep wells has a pH of over 7.0 and can increase the pH of sandy soils rapidly. If you suspect you have high-pH water, test your soil annually to monitor changes in soil pH.

Pruning

If blueberry plants are not pruned, they eventually become dense, twiggy, and nonproductive. Pruning mature blueberry plants is largely a matter of cane removal or cane thinning and reducing the height of the canopy. The objective of pruning mature bushes is to stimulate the proper balance between vegetative and reproductive growth. Cane removal pruning stimulates the development of new canes, which tend to be more productive than older canes. Once the plant is four to five years old or older, a general rule is to remove about 1/4–1/5 of the oldest canes each year (usually 1–3 of the oldest canes). This will result in continuous cane renewal so that no cane is more than three or four years old. Mature plants are usually topped by removing several inches to a foot or more from the top of the canopy immediately after fruit harvest. This stimulates new growth that will produce next year’s crop and prevents plants from becoming too tall. Dormant pruning (December – January) to reduce the number of flower buds may also be required on some southern highbush cultivars such as ‘Farthing’ that set heavy crops. Flowers should always be removed from one-year-old plants by rubbing them off before fruit set occurs. Most pruning is usually done immediately after harvest during the early summer. Removal of some of the flower buds to adjust the crop load is usually done during the late winter just before growth begins.

Weed Control

Weeds compete with blueberry plants for water, nutrients, and sunlight. Maintaining several inches of acid-forming mulch (such as pine bark, pine straw, or oak leaves) helps control weeds and acidifies the soil in the blueberry plant’s root zone. Woven nursery fabric ground cover or plastic ground cover may be used as synthetic mulches but will not add to the soil organic matter. Be aware that these ground covers may reduce the availability of water from rainfall and the availability of nutrients from surface-applied fertilizers, and they may complicate irrigation and fertilizer practices. In any case, no weeds should be allowed to grow within two feet of blueberry plants.

Pests and Diseases

Many insects, diseases, and vertebrate pests can attack blueberries in commercial fields. Some can cause serious reductions in growth and yield, or can even cause plant death. However, most are sporadic in occurrence and normally cause little damage in small plantings. The most serious pests and diseases that have been observed on blueberries in Florida are discussed below.

Phytophthora root rot, caused by the fungus, Phytophthora cinnamomi, is responsible for the death of many plants in Florida, especially where soil drainage is poor to marginal. Root rot may result in sudden plant death, usually during the summer rainy season, or it may manifest itself as a slow progressive disease characterized by weak growth and early fall color development (yellow, orange, or red foliage) before adjacent healthy plants. Infested plants are often poorly anchored in the soil and usually have very few healthy fibrous roots. Phytophthora root rot is favored by excess soil moisture and high soil temperatures. The best defense against this disease is having good soil drainage and avoiding excess irrigation. Chemical control is currently available, and some cultivars are less susceptible to Phytophthora root rot than others, but none are immune.

Botrytis flower blight (gray mold), caused by the fungus, Botrytis cinerea, can destroy large numbers of rabbiteye flowers when periods of rainy, cloudy weather occur during bloom. This disease can occur on southern highbush blueberries but is generally more severe on rabbiteye cultivars. Under conditions favorable for disease development, all parts of the flower are susceptible to infection. Flowers may even become infected before they open. Flowers and flower buds should be kept as dry as possible. Overhead irrigation should be avoided during bud swell and bloom. Protective fungicides are available for control of this disease.

Blueberry stem blight, caused by Botryospheria spp., has resulted in significant plant mortality of southern highbush blueberry plants in Florida. The causal fungi are usually present in orchards and blueberry fields and cause a number of different diseases on various host plants. Rabbiteyes are usually not seriously affected by this disease, but some southern highbush cultivars are extremely susceptible. Various plant stresses such as over-fruiting, poor leafing, drought, and nutritional deficiencies predispose blueberry plants to stem blight. The best defense against stem blight is good horticultural practices that minimize plant stress. There is no chemical control for blueberry stem blight. The best methods of control available are pruning out infected wood, removing flower buds and fruit from young plants, pruning mature bushes to thin crop loads, and minimizing drought and other plant stresses.

Several insect pests damage blueberries in Florida, but, as with diseases, chemical treatments are usually applied only where serious damage is being inflicted. Some insects that can occasionally cause serious damage include flea beetles, various scale insects, cranberry fruitworms, caterpillars, root weevils, thrips, and blueberry gall midge. Spotted wing drosophila, a new pest in Florida, lays its eggs in blueberries and other fruit, and the resulting larval infestation can cause serious damage to the crop (for more information, see http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/in839). Birds are the most serious vertebrate pest of blueberries, although the severity of their damage varies greatly from year to year. Cedar waxwings, robins, and crows have all caused economic damage at some locations in Florida during some years. Small blueberry plantings in the dooryard provide both food and cover for many attractive songbirds. Many homeowners welcome the bird life that blueberry plants attract to their yards, but few blueberries may be harvested from these garden plants unless they are protected by nets.

More information on blueberry pest and disease management can be found at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_blueberry_ipm.

Conclusion

Blueberries can be grown successfully for the home garden in Florida. Rabbiteye, southern highbush, or both may be used depending on geographic location, site characteristics, and anticipated harvest season. Generally, rabbiteyes are the best choice for areas north of Lake City and southern highbush blueberries are usually preferred for areas south of Ocala. Only the low-chill cultivars that have been specifically bred for mild climates are suitable for Florida. Proper site and cultivar selection are probably the two most critical decisions for the blueberry gardener. Plants located too close to hardwood trees produce few fruit, although blueberry plants and pine trees are surprisingly compatible. Rabbiteye requires cross-pollination, and southern highbush benefits from cross-pollination. Cultivars of each type (rabbiteye with rabbiteye and southern highbush with southern highbush) should be mixed together, and natural bee populations should be encouraged for good pollination and fruit set. Growing several cultivars will also lengthen the harvest season. Major yield reductions occur from spring freezes and birds. Blueberry stem blight and Phytophthora root rot are major causes of plant mortality in Florida.

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Millie Ferrer-Chancy, Interim Dean.